Discover whether the Sony A77 is still a smart buy in 2025. Explore its performance, features, and value in today’s market for budget-conscious photographers

Is the Sony A77 Still Worth Buying in 2025?

In a world dominated by mirrorless cameras and cutting-edge sensor technology, it’s easy to overlook older DSLR-style bodies like the Sony A77. Released in 2011, the Sony Alpha SLT-A77 made waves as a high-end APS-C camera packed with features that rivaled full-frame competitors. Fast-forward to 2025, and many photographers—especially beginners and budget-conscious shooters—are asking the same question: Is the Sony A77 still worth buying in 2025?

Let’s break it down.

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The Sony A77 at a Glance

The Sony A77 was part of Sony’s Single-Lens Translucent (SLT) lineup, designed with a fixed semi-transparent mirror and electronic viewfinder. This gave it some unique advantages over traditional DSLRs, such as faster continuous shooting and real-time autofocus during video.

Key Specs:

• 24.3MP APS-C CMOS Sensor
• 12 fps burst shooting
• ISO 100–16,000
• Full HD 1080p video
• 19-point AF system (11 cross-type)
• Built-in OLED electronic viewfinder
• Weather-sealed magnesium alloy body

At its release, these features were impressive. Even today, they hold up better than you might expect, especially for the price.

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Image Quality in 2025

While modern sensors have come a long way, the 24.3MP sensor in the A77 still delivers solid results, especially at lower ISOs. You’ll get detailed, sharp images suitable for both web and print.

However, the A77 does show its age in high-ISO performance. ISO 1600 is usable, but you’ll start to notice significant noise beyond that. If low-light shooting is a big part of your workflow, the A77 might not be ideal—though with good lighting or a flash, it’s more than capable.

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Video Capabilities

The A77 shoots Full HD 1080p video at 60fps and features continuous phase-detection autofocus while recording, thanks to its SLT design. For casual video creators or those documenting family moments, this is still perfectly usable. But in a market where 4K is the standard and many cameras offer 10-bit color or Log profiles, the A77’s video features are somewhat dated.

That said, it still beats many entry-level DSLRs in this department.

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Build Quality and Handling

One of the standout features of the A77 is its robust construction. The body is made of magnesium alloy and is weather-sealed, giving it a durable feel that’s rare in mid-range DSLRs of its time—and even some modern ones.

Its ergonomics are excellent. The grip is deep and comfortable, the button layout is intuitive, and the top LCD panel is a convenient touch. The articulating LCD screen is a huge bonus for creative angles, especially for vloggers and low-angle shots.

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Autofocus and Speed

The 19-point autofocus system, with 11 cross-type points, still performs admirably in good lighting conditions. It’s fast, accurate, and more than capable for general photography, portraits, and even some action shots.

The real headline is its 12 frames per second burst shooting, which outpaces many current entry-level and mid-range cameras. If you shoot sports, wildlife, or any kind of fast-paced action on a budget, this is a major perk.

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Lens Compatibility

The A77 uses the Sony A-mount, which Sony has largely phased out in favor of the E-mount system. While this means you won’t see many new lenses released for A-mount, the silver lining is that the used market is rich and affordable.

There’s a healthy selection of Minolta AF lenses, Sony DT lenses, and third-party glass (Tamron, Sigma, Tokina) available at low prices. For those who don’t need cutting-edge optics and autofocus, this can be a goldmine.

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Battery Life

One area where older DSLRs and SLT cameras like the A77 fall short compared to modern mirrorless bodies is battery life. That’s not the case here. Thanks to the large NP-FM500H battery and efficient SLT design, the A77 can shoot upwards of 400–500 shots per charge, depending on how often you use the EVF and LCD.

This makes it a great option for long shooting days or travel without the need for constant battery swaps.

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Who Is the A77 Still Good For?

The A77 may not be for everyone in 2025, but it serves specific users quite well:

Beginners & Hobbyists:

If you’re just getting into photography and want to learn the ropes on a capable body with manual controls, excellent build quality, and fast performance, the A77 is a great starting point.

Budget-Conscious Shooters:

You can find a used A77 for under $400 (sometimes with a kit lens), making it one of the best-value APS-C DSLRs around.

Wildlife & Action Shooters:

Thanks to the 12 fps burst mode, solid autofocus, and telephoto lens availability, it’s a sleeper choice for wildlife and sports on a tight budget.

Landscape & Travel Photographers:

Pair the A77 with a used ultra-wide or standard zoom lens, and you’ve got a weather-sealed rig that produces beautiful landscape images without breaking the bank.

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Things to Keep in Mind

• No 4K video: This might be a dealbreaker for modern content creators.
• Limited A-mount lens development: Sony is not updating this system, so you’re relying on older or third-party lenses.
• No touchscreen: While not a necessity, it’s a feature many have come to expect in 2025.
• EVF quality: Usable but not as crisp as today’s OLED viewfinders.

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Conclusion: Is It Still Worth It?

Yes—if you know what you’re getting.
The Sony A77 is not a cutting-edge camera in 2025, but it doesn’t need to be. Its solid sensor, fast burst shooting, excellent build quality, and affordable used pricing make it a fantastic option for photographers who prioritize value.

If you’re okay with its limitations—no 4K, dated lens mount, and older tech—it’s still a camera that can produce beautiful results in the right hands.

Verdict: A hidden gem for budget shooters who want more than entry-level performance.

Is the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 still worth buying in 2025? Discover why this affordable, reliable, and sharp classic lens remains a top pick—especially when bought used. Our in-depth review breaks it all down.

Is the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 Still Worth It? Our Review of the Used Classic

The Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lens has long been a staple in the bags of photographers around the world. Nicknamed the “nifty fifty,” this lens offers a beautiful balance of quality, portability, and affordability. But in 2025, with mirrorless cameras and new lens mounts dominating the market, many photographers are asking: Is the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 still worth it—especially if you’re buying it used?

We think the answer is a solid yes, and in this review, we’ll break down why this classic lens continues to hold its ground and why picking up a used one might be one of the smartest gear decisions you can make.

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A Legacy of Optical Excellence

Nikon has produced multiple versions of the 50mm f/1.8 lens over the decades—manual focus AI-S models, the autofocus AF-D, and the more modern AF-S versions. Regardless of the variant, all have maintained a reputation for sharp optics and solid performance.

The AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G, released in 2011, is especially popular among DSLR users. It features:

• A fast maximum aperture of f/1.8 for excellent low-light performance
• Silent Wave Motor (SWM) for fast and quiet autofocus
• Aspherical lens elements for improved sharpness and reduced distortion
• A lightweight, compact design (only around 185g)

Even by today’s standards, the image quality is impressive. It produces sharp images at f/1.8 and gets even sharper when stopped down. The bokeh is smooth, the color rendition is natural, and it performs beautifully in both natural light and artificial lighting environments.

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Why a Used Nikon 50mm f/1.8 Still Makes Sense

1. Outstanding Value for Money

Used copies of the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G are often available at a fraction of the price of newer lenses. For under $150–$200, you can get a lens that delivers performance comparable to lenses costing three times as much. If you’re starting out or building a budget-friendly kit, this lens gives you a huge bang for your buck.

2. Perfect for Beginners and Enthusiasts

Because of its standard focal length and fast aperture, the 50mm f/1.8 is incredibly versatile. It’s ideal for:

• Portraits with pleasing background blur
• Street photography due to its discreet size
• General-purpose photography—landscapes, food, travel, and more

It teaches beginners about depth of field, composition, and shooting in low light, all without breaking the bank.

3. Compatibility with DSLRs and Mirrorless (with Adapter)

This lens is primarily designed for Nikon’s F-mount DSLRs (like the D750, D610, D7500, and D5600), but it also works seamlessly with Nikon Z-series mirrorless cameras when paired with the FTZ or FTZ II adapter.

So if you’re transitioning from DSLR to mirrorless, your investment in a used 50mm f/1.8 doesn’t go to waste—it keeps up with you.

4. It’s Built to Last

Nikon lenses are known for their durability. The 50mm f/1.8G may not be weather-sealed, but its plastic body and metal mount are surprisingly tough. If well cared for, a used copy can continue to deliver great performance for years.

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What to Look For When Buying Used

When considering a used Nikon 50mm f/1.8, make sure to check the following:

• Glass condition: Look for scratches, haze, or fungus. Minor dust inside the lens is common and doesn’t typically affect image quality.
• Autofocus: Test it on your camera body to make sure the Silent Wave Motor focuses quickly and accurately.
• Aperture blades: Ensure they open and close smoothly and aren’t sticky or oily.
• Mount and contacts: Look for wear or corrosion.
• Overall body: Some cosmetic wear is fine, but avoid lenses with signs of impact or heavy abuse.

Buying from a trusted seller or store with a return policy or warranty makes the process much safer.

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Alternatives to Consider

If you’re looking for something slightly different, here are a few other lenses to think about:

• Nikon 50mm f/1.4G – Offers a slightly faster aperture, though it’s bulkier and more expensive
• Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 S – A mirrorless-native option for Nikon Z users; excellent sharpness and rendering
• Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art (F-mount) – A heavier, pricier option with top-tier performance

Still, these alternatives often come at a premium, and for most photographers, the f/1.8 is more than sufficient.

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Real-World Image Quality

Even today, photographers rave about the images this lens can produce. The sharpness at wide apertures makes it suitable for both portraits and product photography. It handles chromatic aberrations fairly well and offers pleasing background separation when shooting wide open.

The colors are true-to-life, and the contrast holds up well in high-contrast lighting situations. While it may lack the micro-contrast and advanced coatings of newer lenses, the differences are negligible for most shooters.

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Our Final Verdict

So, is the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 still worth it in 2025? Absolutely. Whether you’re a beginner looking to take your first steps into prime lenses, or an experienced shooter building a lightweight travel kit, this lens remains one of the best values on the used market.

Buying used not only saves money, but also makes sense environmentally and practically. As long as the lens has been well-maintained, you can expect it to continue delivering excellent results.

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Quick Recap: Why You Should Still Consider the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 (Used)

✅ Affordable, even on a tight budget
✅ Sharp images with creamy bokeh
✅ Lightweight and compact
✅ Great for both DSLRs and mirrorless (with adapter)
✅ Proven reliability over the years

If you’re looking to upgrade your kit without overspending, the used Nikon 50mm f/1.8 remains one of the smartest purchases you can make.

Looking for the best used lenses for low-light photography? Discover budget-friendly prime and zoom lenses for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm, Sigma, and vintage options that excel in dim lighting.

Which Used Lens Is Best for Low-Light Photography?

Low-light photography is a thrilling challenge for photographers. Whether you’re capturing vibrant cityscapes at night, atmospheric indoor scenes, or intimate portraits in dim lighting, having the right lens is essential. The lens you choose can significantly impact image quality, sharpness, and overall shooting flexibility in low-light conditions.

While modern camera sensors have improved in handling high ISO settings, a fast lens with a wide maximum aperture remains one of the most important tools for low-light shooting. But premium low-light lenses can be expensive. Thankfully, the used lens market offers incredible options that deliver professional results at a fraction of the cost.

In this article, we’ll explore what to look for in a low-light lens, and recommend some of the best used lenses across popular brands for capturing stunning images in challenging lighting conditions.

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Key Features of a Good Low-Light Lens

Before we dive into lens recommendations, it’s important to understand the critical attributes that make a lens suitable for low-light photography:

1. Wide Maximum Aperture (f/1.2 to f/2.8)
   A wide aperture allows more light to hit the sensor, enabling faster shutter speeds and lower ISO settings.
2. Image Stabilization (IS/VR/OSS/VC)
   Helps reduce camera shake when shooting handheld at slower shutter speeds.
3. Reliable Autofocus Performance in Low Light
   Fast and accurate autofocus is crucial for capturing sharp images in dim environments.
4. Focal Length Depending on Genre
   • Portraits: 50mm to 85mm
   • Events: 24mm to 70mm
   • Concerts & Nightlife: 35mm to 135mm
   • Astrophotography: Wide-angle lenses like 14mm or 24mm

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Top Used Lenses for Low-Light Photography

1. Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

• Mount: Canon EF (Full-frame & APS-C)
• Why it’s great: A step up from the 50mm f/1.8, this lens offers a wider f/1.4 aperture, delivering better light-gathering ability and creamy bokeh.
• Low-Light Performance: Excellent for portraits, street photography, and indoor events.
• Used Price Range: $250–$350

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2. Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

• Mount: Canon EF
• Why it’s great: Known for its sharpness and beautiful bokeh, this lens is a favorite among portrait photographers, especially in low-light scenarios.
• Low-Light Performance: Great for indoor portraits, concerts, and nighttime street photography.
• Used Price Range: $300–$400

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3. Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4G

• Mount: Nikon F (Full-frame & APS-C)
• Why it’s great: A solid low-light performer with a wide aperture and smooth rendering. It’s lightweight, sharp, and reliable.
• Low-Light Performance: Excellent for portraits and general low-light work.
• Used Price Range: $300–$400

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4. Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.8G

• Mount: Nikon F
• Why it’s great: Offers impressive sharpness, quick autofocus, and great subject isolation in low light.
• Low-Light Performance: Perfect for portraits, indoor events, and concerts.
• Used Price Range: $300–$450

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5. Sony FE 50mm f/1.8

• Mount: Sony E (Full-frame & APS-C)
• Why it’s great: An affordable prime for Sony mirrorless users, providing bright f/1.8 aperture for low-light shooting.
• Low-Light Performance: Great for beginners needing a fast lens for evening cityscapes or indoor shots.
• Used Price Range: $150–$200

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6. Sony FE 85mm f/1.8

• Mount: Sony E
• Why it’s great: Offers excellent image quality, fast autofocus, and beautiful bokeh at a reasonable price.
• Low-Light Performance: Ideal for portraits and events in dim conditions.
• Used Price Range: $350–$450

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7. Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R

• Mount: Fujifilm X (APS-C)
• Why it’s great: Known for its magical rendering and character-rich bokeh, it’s a cult favorite among Fujifilm users.
• Low-Light Performance: Excellent for street photography and indoor shooting.
• Used Price Range: $400–$500

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8. Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN Contemporary (Sony E, Fujifilm X, Canon EF-M)

• Why it’s great: A fast, compact, and affordable prime lens with superb optical quality.
• Low-Light Performance: Fantastic for handheld shooting in low-light conditions, offering a bright f/1.4 aperture.
• Used Price Range: $250–$300

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9. Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD (Canon/Nikon)

• Why it’s great: A versatile workhorse zoom lens that covers wide to short telephoto with a constant f/2.8 aperture and image stabilization.
• Low-Light Performance: Excellent for event photographers who need flexibility and stabilization in dimly lit venues.
• Used Price Range: $500–$700

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10. Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art (Canon/Nikon/Sony A Mounts)

• Why it’s great: One of the few zoom lenses with an ultra-wide f/1.8 aperture, making it a powerhouse for low-light APS-C shooters.
• Low-Light Performance: Outstanding for concerts, indoor events, and even astrophotography.
• Used Price Range: $500–$650

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Vintage Lenses for Low-Light Photography

If you’re open to manual focus, vintage lenses can provide a unique aesthetic and wide apertures at bargain prices:

11. Canon FD 50mm f/1.4

• Mount: Canon FD (adaptable to mirrorless)
• Why it’s great: Warm tones, creamy bokeh, and wide f/1.4 aperture for low-light work.
• Used Price Range: $100–$150

12. Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (M42 Mount)

• Mount: M42 screw mount (adaptable to mirrorless)
• Why it’s great: Renowned for its dreamy rendering and beautiful flare.
• Used Price Range: $100–$150

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Why Aperture is Key in Low Light

A lens with a wide maximum aperture (f/1.2 to f/2.8) allows significantly more light to reach the camera sensor compared to a kit lens with a variable f/3.5–5.6 aperture. For example, an f/1.4 lens lets in four times more light than an f/2.8 lens. This allows you to:

• Use faster shutter speeds to avoid motion blur.
• Keep ISO settings lower for cleaner images.
• Create shallow depth of field for subject isolation in portraits.

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Do You Need Image Stabilization for Low Light?

While a wide aperture helps capture more light, image stabilization (IS/VR/OSS/VC) becomes essential when shooting handheld at slower shutter speeds. This is especially helpful for:

• Event photography
• Handheld night scenes
• Indoor shooting without a tripod

However, for moving subjects like dancers, street performers, or animals, a faster shutter speed is more critical than stabilization, making a fast aperture lens your top priority.

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Autofocus Performance in Dim Conditions

Autofocus systems can struggle in low light, so lenses with robust, reliable AF motors (USM for Canon, SWM for Nikon, or linear motors for Sony/Fujifilm) perform better in these challenging environments. In situations where AF fails, switching to manual focus (aided by focus peaking on mirrorless cameras) can save the shot.

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Conclusion

Low-light photography doesn’t require the most expensive, brand-new lenses. By exploring the used lens market, you can find incredible deals on fast prime lenses and versatile zooms that deliver stellar low-light performance.

From budget-friendly classics like the Canon 50mm f/1.4 and Nikon 85mm f/1.8G, to more specialized lenses like the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art, there are countless options to fit different shooting styles and budgets. Vintage manual lenses also offer a cost-effective path to low-light creativity for those willing to embrace manual focus.

With careful research and a keen eye for deals, you can build a low-light photography kit that delivers professional-quality images without overspending.

Select a Picture When you prepare your images for printing take note of which pictures you like when you look at them on your phone or computer. Of course, it is an important decision what are going to hang on your wall. Especially if it is going to be here for a long time. Your choice is probably depends on the emotions it evokes, the colours or the technical excellence of the picture. Find the exact image that you are looking for.

File Format and Resolution

When you prepare your images for printing for the optimal production use the highest resolution available, don’t change the resolution and don’t resize up or down your photo. Ideally you don’t want to compress your image at all. You can test your picture in some easy-to-use configurator (like WhiteWall) to optimise your file and to achieve the best possible quality. Save it with 8-bit colour and an sRGB colour space.

Colour and Brightness

Don’t forget that colour and brightness can appear different on a monitor than they do in print. There are three reasons for this. The first reason is that a monitor is illuminated and the paper isn’t. Therefore a monitor a monitor can display a photo much brighter than the picture actually is (which is how it will look printed). The second reason is that different papers have their own base tone. It means that a pure white will look different from appear to paper, affecting the overall brightness of the colour. The third reason is that depending on the specifications of the printer such as the dots per inch (DPI), the print-head capability and the type and quality of ink/toner used is also going to affect the colour and the print quality.

For Soft Proofing Use ICC Colour Profiles

What is Soft proofing?  lets you temporarily simulate how an image will appear on another device, such as a printer, by using only a computer monitor. An ICC profile is a set of data that describes the properties of a colour space, the range of colours (gamut) that a monitor can display or a printer can output. The most widely used colour space is Adobe RGB (1998). If you have a calibrated monitor, ICC profiles are the perfect way to asses how your pictures will look on the final product. You can find downloadable ICC colour profiles on the internet for many product options.

Do Test Prints

If you do not have a calibrate monitor or if you don’t want to spend too much time assessing the variables of different things that are affecting your final product, you can do a test printing, which is a hard proof option to see if you need to change anything in order to have a perfect photo.

Best Camera for Photo Printing

If you want to take photos to print them out, perhaps choosing the right camera is the most important. Please notice that print size doubles, the megapixels required increases as well. Therefore, you can make a nice 8″ x 10″ print with a 6 or 8 megapixel camera. But to make a real photo quality 16″ x 20″ print, you would need between 24 and 30 megapixel camera.

What’s the difference between full-frame vs APS-C vs Micro Four Thirds sensors? And how do these sensor distinctions affect your images? Thinking about video camera sensors can get pretty confusing. That’s why I break all of it down for you in this article– and I provide plenty of examples to show the electronic camera sensor impacts. If you want to know, when and for all, how sensor type impacts your images, then let’s get started.

What is a full-frame vs an APS-C (crop) vs a Micro Four Thirds (MFT) cam?

The sensor is the part of a camera that really catches an image. It takes in light, which it then converts to image information.
Now, different camera types provide different-sized sensing units, which’s the basic difference between full-frame, APS-C, and Micro Four Thirds video cameras.
A full-frame video camera contains a sensor size equivalent to 35mm movie (36 mm x 24 mm). This is the biggest sensor size marketed to photography consumers.
An APS-C camera, on the other hand, has a smaller sized sensor. The specifics depend upon the electronic camera brand, but the sensing unit size is generally around 23 mm x 15 mm.
There are Micro 4 Thirds cams, which consist of Micro Four Thirds sensors; these are even smaller than APS-C sensors, clocking in at just 17.3 mm x 13 mm.
Now, apart from the physical sizes, there are a number of important distinctions between full-frame, APS-C, and Micro 4 Thirds sensing units.
So let’s take a look at the factors impacted by sensing unit size, starting with:

Crop Factor

State you mount a 50mm lens on a full-frame video camera. When you press the shutter button, it catches a 50mm image.
Makes sense, right? A 50mm lens captures a 50mm image. Simple.
But what if you install a 50mm lens on an APS-C electronic camera? Will it capture a 50mm image?
The answer is no.
Because an APS-C sensing unit is smaller than the full-frame sensor, the sensor crops the frame, giving you an outcome that looks zoomed in-as if you took the image with a 75mm lens instead of a 50mm lens.
The effect is similar to taking an image with a 50mm lens, then heading house and cropping the image on your computer system. You’ll get a tighter shot, one that looks like it was taken with a longer lens.).
And that is what the term crop factor implies. It refers to the various crop results produced by different sensor sizes. A full-frame cam is the requirement; it has no crop element. An APS-C sensor (also known as a crop sensing unit), has a crop factor of 1.5 x (on Nikon and Sony video cameras) or 1.6 x (on Canon cams). The Micro Four Thirds crop element is even stronger: 2x.

Focal length

A crop element has a predictable affect on your lens’s focal length.
You see, the focal length measurement of any provided lens is based on the basic 35mm movie format. And since an APS-C video camera (and a Micro Four Thirds video camera) crop out the edges of the frame, you wind up with an “efficient” focal length that corresponds straight to the initial focal length increased by the crop element.
A crop-sensor cam such as the Nikon D5600 has a crop factor of 1.5 x. Thus, if I install a 35mm lens on my Nikon D5600, it would multiply the focal length by 1.5 x, efficiently offering me a focal length output of around 52.5 mm.
( But if you mount the same lens on a full-frame Nikon body such as the D850, it provides an output of 35mm.).
Likewise, if you install a 35mm lens on a Micro 4 Thirds camera– which has a crop factor of 2x– it efficiently doubles the focal length to around 70mm.

Depth of field

As with focal length, a multiplier effect gets applied to the aperture when using APS-C and MFT electronic cameras.
The aperture or f-stop is among a number of factors determining the depth of field. Thus, a Micro 4 Thirds camera offers us more depth of field when compared to a full-frame camera, assuming both video cameras are utilizing equivalent reliable focal lengths. Exact same with an APS-C cam compared to a full-frame electronic camera; you get more depth of field using the APS-C cam, assuming the effective focal length on both video cameras equals.
An image shot at f/1.8 on a Micro 4 Thirds video camera offers an output comparable to an image shot at f/3.6 on a full-frame electronic camera and f/2.7 on a crop-sensor video camera. This is assuming that the efficient focal length and other shooting conditions remain the exact same.

Full-frame sensing units are larger than APS-C and Micro Four Thirds sensing units.
As you can probably guess, full-frame video cameras tend to be far larger and much heavier than their APS-C and MFT equivalents.
For some professional photographers, this won’t matter much; if you shoot in the studio every day, a smaller sized Micro 4 Thirds cam will not use much of an advantage.
If you’re a travel photographer who needs to keep your gear as light-weight and compact as possible, a Micro Four Thirds body is a wonderful choice.
Plus, APS-C and MFT video cameras are more convenient. You can hang them on your neck or keep them in a knapsack throughout the day without seeming like you’re bring a brick.

Low-light Performance

Generally, full-frame cameras include superior low-light and high-ISO performance. This results in much better image quality than crop-sensor (or Micro 4 Thirds) electronic cameras can accomplish.
But why do full-frame cameras carry out much better in low light?
Full-frame cams have bigger sensing units and are therefore efficient in catching more light than their smaller-sensor equivalents, which lessens unwanted sound.
Micro Four Thirds video cameras do not perform well under low-light conditions where the ISO needs to be cranked up to, say, above 1600.
( Note that full-frame cameras likewise provide superior dynamic variety, which permits you to record more information in a single shot.).
For these factors, while full-frame cams can be costly, bulky, and frustrating to carry around, they are still the industry requirement and the preferred cams for nearly all expert photography work.

Full frame vs APS-C vs Micro Four Thirds: conclusion

Now that you’ve completed this article, you must hopefully have a grasp on the distinctions in between these sensing unit types– and why you may wish to choose one sensor over another.
Simply keep in mind:.
All three sensors– complete frame, APS-C, and MFT– are very capable of capturing spectacular photos.
Don’t worry too much about the distinctions.
Do you have a preferred sensor type? Which of these three sensors does your camera use? Share your ideas in the comments below!

Are you looking for tips for better pictures? Do you want to learn photography and take better photos? Here I have 15 tips for cool photo tips for you. This makes learning photography child’s play.

Well, maybe I am a bit over the top. Because learning to take photos above all requires a lot of practice. But there are already a few tips that will help you on the way to better photos – basically the basics of photography or a great overview for beginners.

And one more word about your path into photography. We do almost everything out of habit. So when you think about your goal: I WANT TO LEARN TO PHOTOGRAPHY, then above all you should work on your habits! Make your vision or goal a habit – keep your camera on hand, daily or at least weekly. Try out new things but also get a routine in camera technology..

In this photography article for beginners, we will teach you some basic step by step important photography basics about aperture, ISO, focus, exposure time and light meter. You will learn how your camera takes a picture, regardless of whether it is a single lens reflex camera, system camera or compact camera.

1. Every photo needs a foreground

Bring depth to your photo. They also say: Every photo needs a foreground. So look for objects in the foreground of your photo. It can be a rock, a stone, a fence or a bush. That opens your picture and guides the gaze. Foreground is the portion of the frame that is closest to the camera. The foreground space in an image can be utilized to draw attention to a subject located further into the frame

A railing can be a perfect foreground, even if it’s only partially visible!

2. Give your photo a frame

A natural frame helps your composition. This can be an archway, a hedge or a group of people. So frame your photo! This also gives your photo depth. I also have a great photo task for you on the subject of “Give your photo a frame” !

A frame increases the depth of your photo

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3. Get close!

Dare to approach your subject. Your photo wins by being close. Unimportant picture elements are eliminated and the view of the essentials increases.

Get close! Proximity increases the effect of the picture.

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4. Zoom in with your feet

Wow, I can zoom in on it super cool. Nice to pull up the photo in the mobile phone. Huh, everything out of focus?! Remember that every zoom and telephoto effect often always has a loss of quality. So zoom in with your feet. Because then the quality is retained!

Too far away? Then get closer – instead of always zooming!

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5. Pay attention to the direction

The eye always wants to follow the direction. No matter whether in the run, in the flight path or something similar. So your photographed object should always leave room for direction. For example, let the person walk into the picture, not out.

I tried to pay attention to the running direction in the running photos. Leave room!

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6. In the dark with a tripod

Photos in the dark should generally always be taken with a tripod. Because in long exposure it is not possible for you to hold the camera without shaking. Nowadays, of course, many cameras can achieve infinitely high ISO values, but as a rule, the lower the ISO value, the lower the image noise. And above all, you can compose great photos in the long exposure with the remote release.

Better to use a tripod in the dark!

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7. Do not cut off the feet

I often (only) pay attention to the face when photographing people. But in the full body portrait you should develop a view of the big picture of the subject. So do not accidentally cut off your feet, arms or legs.

If you’re taking full body shots, don’t cut off their feet!

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8. Hard light and soft light

You should teach yourself to control the light. Because then you have learned one of the most important rules. Soft light gives your photo a natural mood, but hard light can also be totally exciting. Also you can use a flash diffuser.

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9. Create tension and curiosity

If you don’t show everything, then you leave the viewer room for speculation. Much is completed in the head. But that is exactly what can create tension and curiosity.

A clever cut in particular can create a lot of tension.

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10. Focus on the eyes

The eyes often determine the portrait. That’s why I always focus on the eyes in portrait photography. I also often choose a large aperture in order to have a lot of blurring in the background and thus additionally emphasize the eyes.A focus on the eyes combined with a large aperture and blurring can create tension.

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11. Check the sharpness

Nothing is more annoying than blurry images when you have planned it differently. Consistent sharpness is particularly desirable in landscape photography or architectural photography. So check the sharpness during and immediately after the photo. Otherwise, vary the aperture to achieve a greater depth of field.

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12. Go at eye level

Go on eye level with your subject. This is especially true for children, animals and flowers. The result is much more authentic images!

Go at eye level. This gives your photo a much more natural look!

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13. Get out of the middle

Avoid placing them in the center of the picture. Better to take photos according to the rule of thirds. Visual balance is always important.

The eye perceives a placement according to the rule of thirds as very pleasant and exciting.

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14. Use natural light

Light composes your photo. And if you want a natural, authentic photo here, then try to get as much natural light as possible.

It’s all about natural light

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15. Pay attention to shapes

There are shapes everywhere. You can find circles, rectangles, triangles and much more everywhere. Even if you don’t recognize it right away, develop an eye for shapes in your photo. This will help you.

Confused about which Canon 18-55mm lens to buy used? This in-depth comparison covers Non-IS, IS, STM, EF-S, and EF-M versions—helping you choose the best one for your camera, budget, and shooting style in 2025.

Canon 18-55mm Lenses Compared: Non-IS, IS, STM, EF-S, and EF-M – Which One to Buy Used?

Introduction
Canon’s 18-55mm lens lineup has long been a go-to option for entry-level photographers and budget-conscious creatives. While often bundled with beginner DSLRs or mirrorless cameras, these lenses differ significantly across versions. If you’re in the market for a used Canon 18-55mm, understanding the differences between Non-IS, IS, STM, EF-S, and EF-M versions can help you make a smart and cost-effective decision. This article breaks down the most common used 18-55mm Canon lenses, evaluates their performance, and offers advice on which one is best suited for your needs in 2025.

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1. Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 (Non-IS)

Overview:
This is the earliest version of Canon’s 18-55mm lens and is usually found on older models like the Rebel XT or XTi. It lacks Image Stabilization (IS), which makes it the least desirable in low light or handheld shooting conditions.

Pros:

• Very cheap on the used market
• Decent image quality at f/8
• Lightweight

Cons:

• No image stabilization
• Slower autofocus
• Poorer build quality

Best for:
Absolute beginners or those on a tight budget who will mostly shoot in good lighting or use a tripod.

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2. Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS (Mark I & II)

Overview:
Canon introduced Image Stabilization in the next iterations of the lens, a huge improvement for handheld photography. The IS version produces better handheld shots in low light and offers a more solid build.

Pros:

• Affordable used prices
• Includes IS
• Acceptable sharpness for general use

Cons:

• Noisy autofocus
• Not ideal for video

Best for:
Casual photographers looking for an affordable, stabilized everyday lens.

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3. Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM

Overview:
The STM (Stepping Motor) version brought significant upgrades in focus speed, smoothness, and quiet operation—making it ideal for video. It’s one of the most popular and reliable kit lenses Canon has made.

Pros:

• Smooth, silent STM autofocus
• Great for video
• Improved sharpness and coatings
• Still very affordable used

Cons:

• Plastic build
• Not weather-sealed

Best for:
Video shooters, vloggers, and general photographers looking for quiet, quick autofocus.

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4. Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM

Overview:
This slightly newer version is smaller and lighter than its predecessors. The aperture starts at f/4 instead of f/3.5, which is a trade-off for portability. Image quality and IS are slightly refined, and it retains the STM motor.

Pros:

• Compact and lightweight
• Quiet, smooth focus for video
• Improved optics

Cons:

• Slightly slower aperture
• Still plastic build

Best for:
Photographers who prioritize compact gear or use newer Canon DSLR bodies like the Rebel SL2 or SL3.

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5. Canon EF-M 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM

Overview:
This version is designed specifically for Canon’s now-discontinued EOS M mirrorless system. It features a more premium metal construction and delivers sharp, high-quality images.

Pros:

• Sharp image quality
• Metal build
• Smooth, quiet STM focus

Cons:

• Limited to EF-M mount cameras
• EOS M system has been phased out

Best for:
Users of Canon EOS M series cameras who want a reliable, quality standard zoom.

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Comparison Table:

Lens Version	IS	STM	For DSLR or Mirrorless	Pros	Best Use Case
Non-IS	No	No	DSLR (EF-S)	Cheapest option	Beginners, tripod use only
IS	Yes	No	DSLR (EF-S)	Basic stabilization	General photography
IS STM	Yes	Yes	DSLR (EF-S)	Quiet focus, sharp images	Video & general shooting
f/4-5.6 IS STM	Yes	Yes	DSLR (EF-S)	Compact, sharp	Travel & compact setups
EF-M IS STM	Yes	Yes	Mirrorless (EF-M)	Premium feel, sharp	EOS M users, vloggers, content creators

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What to Look for When Buying Used

• Check Autofocus Performance: Make sure the motor is functioning smoothly, especially for STM versions.
• Inspect for Dust or Fungus: Especially with older lenses, check internal elements.
• Test Image Stabilization: Ensure IS still activates and works as expected.
• Assess Physical Condition: Look for scratches, cracks, or wear on the lens barrel or glass.

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Final Thoughts: Which Should You Choose?

If you’re looking for the best all-around used Canon 18-55mm lens in 2025, the EF-S 18-55mm IS STM still reigns as the best value, especially for video and hybrid shooters. For DSLR users who want a lighter option, the f/4-5.6 IS STM version is excellent. If you own an EOS M mirrorless camera, the EF-M 18-55mm IS STM offers surprisingly strong optics and build for its price.

Avoid the Non-IS version unless budget is your only concern, and be cautious about long-term investment in EF-M lenses since the system has been discontinued.

Used Canon 18-55mm lenses are plentiful, inexpensive, and surprisingly capable—making them a smart buy when paired with the right body.

Wondering whether to buy used Canon EF or RF lenses? Discover the pros and cons of each system, from price and performance to compatibility and future-proofing, in this in-depth guide for Canon photographers.

Used Canon EF vs RF Lenses: Which Should You Choose?

With the continued growth of Canon’s mirrorless system, more photographers are asking a key question: Should I invest in used Canon EF lenses or go all-in with RF glass? If you’re using a Canon EOS R-series mirrorless body, you have access to both RF and EF lenses — thanks to the EF-EOS R adapter — opening up a wide range of options, especially in the used market.

In this article, we’ll compare used EF and RF lenses head-to-head, looking at performance, price, compatibility, and long-term value. Whether you’re upgrading from a DSLR or building a new mirrorless kit on a budget, this guide will help you decide which lens system is right for you.

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1. EF and RF Mount Basics

Before diving into the comparison, let’s break down the differences:

• EF Lenses were designed for Canon’s DSLR cameras and have been around since 1987. They include everything from entry-level zooms to pro-grade L-series lenses.
• RF Lenses are Canon’s newer mirrorless lenses built for the EOS R system (starting in 2018), offering cutting-edge optics and features like in-lens control rings and improved communication with the camera body.

When paired with Canon’s EF-EOS R adapter, EF lenses work seamlessly on EOS R-series cameras, often with no performance loss in autofocus or image quality.

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2. Price & Value: EF Wins (Especially Used)

One of the biggest reasons photographers lean toward used EF lenses is price.

• Used EF lenses are widely available and significantly more affordable than their RF counterparts.
• For example, a used EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM can be found for $900–$1,200, while the RF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS USM costs upwards of $2,000 new or $1,700 used.
• Even affordable EF primes like the EF 50mm f/1.8 STM can be found for under $100, while the RF 50mm f/1.8 STM typically sells for $150–$200 used.

Conclusion: If you’re on a tight budget or want more bang for your buck, the used EF lineup offers tremendous value.

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3. Optical Performance: RF Takes the Lead

RF lenses are newer and benefit from modern design and engineering. Canon used the shorter flange distance in mirrorless cameras to improve optical formulas, leading to:

• Sharper images across the frame
• Better edge-to-edge clarity
• Reduced chromatic aberration and distortion
• Improved coatings for flare control

That said, many EF L lenses still compete well, especially top-tier glass like the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM or EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM.

Conclusion: RF lenses usually offer superior sharpness and clarity — but the differences might only matter for large prints or high-end work.

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4. Autofocus Performance: Nearly Equal

When using the Canon EF-EOS R adapter, EF lenses autofocus quickly and accurately on mirrorless bodies like the EOS R5, R6, or R8. Canon has done an excellent job maintaining full autofocus compatibility.

However, RF lenses were specifically designed for the EOS R system. They benefit from faster and quieter autofocus motors and better communication between lens and body, particularly in eye-detection AF and continuous AF tracking.

Conclusion: For casual users and most pros, the autofocus difference is minor. But for high-speed sports, wildlife, or video work, RF lenses may give a slight edge.

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5. Features & Functionality: RF Adds More

RF lenses introduce modern design features that aren’t available on EF models, such as:

• Customizable control rings for adjusting ISO, aperture, or exposure comp
• In-lens image stabilization, even in lenses that previously had none
• Improved weather sealing and build quality

For hybrid shooters or video creators, these features can dramatically improve workflow.

Conclusion: If you’re looking for modern controls and future-proof features, RF wins.

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6. Lens Selection: EF Has the Numbers

Canon’s EF system includes over 100 lenses, covering every focal length and budget. The used market is overflowing with choices — from vintage EF lenses to pro L-series glass.

While Canon’s RF lineup is growing, it’s still catching up. Some focal lengths, like tilt-shift or certain specialty macro lenses, are still unavailable in RF mount.

Conclusion: EF offers more variety, especially for niche photography or specialty needs.

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7. Adaptability and Versatility: EF Offers Flexibility

EF lenses can be used not only on Canon DSLRs and mirrorless cameras (via adapter) but also adapted to other systems, like Sony E-mount or Micro Four Thirds. They’re also ideal for multi-system shooters.

RF lenses, on the other hand, are limited to Canon’s mirrorless EOS R system. You can’t use them on DSLRs, and they don’t adapt easily to other brands.

Conclusion: If you want gear that works across multiple camera systems, used EF lenses are more versatile.

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8. Resale Value: EF Still Holds Strong

While some believe RF will eventually replace EF, EF lenses continue to hold value, especially the high-end L glass. Many photographers still shoot DSLRs, and Canon continues to support EF for the time being.

Plus, buying used EF means less depreciation — you can often sell a lens later for nearly what you paid.

Conclusion: Used EF lenses are a safer investment for those concerned with resale value.

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9. Future-Proofing: RF Is the Future

Canon’s clearly investing heavily in RF lens development. As of 2025, new camera bodies and premium lenses are primarily RF. If you’re planning to stay within Canon’s ecosystem long-term, it might make sense to start building your RF kit — especially for flagship lenses or specialty glass.

Conclusion: If you’re future-focused and growing into Canon’s mirrorless world, RF may be the better long-term choice.

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Final Verdict: Which Should You Choose?

It depends on your needs, budget, and goals:

Choose Used EF Lenses if:

• You’re on a budget
• You already own an EF lens collection
• You want the best value on pro glass
• You need specialty lenses not yet available in RF
• You want gear that works on DSLR and mirrorless

Choose RF Lenses if:

• You’re building a future-proof, mirrorless-only system
• You want cutting-edge optical quality and performance
• You need features like control rings or in-lens stabilization
• You shoot fast action, video, or demanding commercial work

For many photographers, a hybrid setup — using mostly used EF lenses with a few key RF lenses — offers the best of both worlds.

Discover the best budget-friendly used lenses for street photography. Explore affordable Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm, and vintage lens options that deliver sharp images and stunning street captures.

Street Photography on a Budget: Top Used Lenses to Try

Street photography is all about capturing candid moments, vibrant city life, and the unique stories unfolding around us every day. Unlike studio or landscape photography, street photography often demands a compact, discreet, and lightweight setup that allows photographers to blend into their environment. But here’s the challenge: camera gear can be expensive, especially high-quality lenses.

The good news is you don’t need to buy brand-new gear to excel at street photography. The used lens market is a treasure trove of affordable, high-performance lenses perfect for shooting in urban environments. In fact, some older lenses are better suited to street photography because of their compact size and character-rich rendering.

In this article, we’ll explore the best used lenses for street photography that deliver exceptional results without draining your wallet.

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Why Buy Used Lenses for Street Photography?

• Affordability: You can save 30–50% compared to buying new, giving you access to higher-quality optics.
• Character Over Clinical Perfection: Older lenses often have unique rendering, flares, and micro-contrast that enhance street photos with a timeless feel.
• Compact and Lightweight Designs: Many older lenses are smaller and lighter, making them less intrusive for candid street work.
• Manual Focus Mastery: Many vintage lenses encourage a slower, more deliberate shooting style, perfect for honing your composition and focus skills.

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What to Look for in a Street Photography Lens

When choosing a lens for street photography, especially on a budget, consider:

• Focal Length: 35mm and 50mm are classic choices for their natural perspective.
• Aperture: A fast aperture (f/1.8 to f/2.8) helps in low light and allows for subject isolation.
• Size & Weight: Compact, lightweight lenses are easier to carry and draw less attention.
• Autofocus or Manual Focus: Both can work; manual focus lenses can slow you down for more thoughtful compositions.

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Top Used Lenses for Street Photography

1. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM (“Nifty Fifty”)

• Mount: Canon EF (Full-frame & APS-C)
• Why it’s great: Sharp, fast, and ultra-affordable. This lens is a no-brainer for Canon users wanting shallow depth of field on a budget.
• Size & Weight: Extremely compact, making it great for discreet shooting.
• Used Price Range: $80–$120

2. Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Pancake Lens

• Mount: Canon EF
• Why it’s great: Ultra-slim pancake design makes your DSLR almost pocketable. Its focal length sits perfectly between 35mm and 50mm.
• Size & Weight: One of Canon’s most compact lenses.
• Used Price Range: $100–$150

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3. Nikon AF-S 35mm f/1.8G DX

• Mount: Nikon F (DX-format APS-C)
• Why it’s great: Equivalent to a 52mm field of view on DX bodies, this is a sharp, fast, and affordable lens ideal for Nikon shooters.
• Size & Weight: Compact and unobtrusive for street use.
• Used Price Range: $120–$160

4. Nikon AF 50mm f/1.8D

• Mount: Nikon F (Full-frame & APS-C)
• Why it’s great: A lightweight, fast prime with classic rendering. On full-frame bodies, it delivers that traditional 50mm “street” perspective.
• Used Price Range: $100–$150

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5. Sony E 35mm f/1.8 OSS (APS-C)

• Mount: Sony E (APS-C)
• Why it’s great: With Optical SteadyShot (OSS) and a fast aperture, this lens is a compact workhorse for Sony mirrorless users.
• Size & Weight: Small and light, great for discreet shooting.
• Used Price Range: $250–$350

6. Sony FE 50mm f/1.8

• Mount: Sony E (Full-frame & APS-C)
• Why it’s great: Affordable full-frame 50mm prime lens with good bokeh and portability.
• Used Price Range: $150–$200

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7. Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 R WR (“Fujicron”)

• Mount: Fujifilm X (APS-C)
• Why it’s great: Weather-sealed, razor-sharp, and compact. Equivalent to 53mm in full-frame terms, it’s perfect for Fujifilm street shooters.
• Size & Weight: Lightweight and discreet.
• Used Price Range: $250–$350

8. Fujifilm XF 27mm f/2.8 Pancake Lens

• Mount: Fujifilm X (APS-C)
• Why it’s great: Equivalent to a 41mm field of view, this pancake lens is ultra-slim, making your Fujifilm body feel like a compact camera.
• Used Price Range: $200–$250

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9. Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN Contemporary (Sony/Fujifilm/Canon EF-M)

• Mounts: Sony E, Fujifilm X, Canon EF-M
• Why it’s great: Excellent optical quality with a fast f/1.4 aperture, perfect for low-light street scenes.
• Used Price Range: $250–$300

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10. Voigtländer Nokton Classic 40mm f/1.4 (M-mount)

• Mount: Leica M (Adaptable to mirrorless)
• Why it’s great: A legendary manual focus lens with a distinctive vintage rendering and creamy bokeh.
• Used Price Range: $300–$400 (excluding adapter)

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Best Vintage Lenses for Street Photography

For those willing to embrace manual focus, vintage lenses are a goldmine of character and affordability.

11. Canon FD 50mm f/1.4

• Mount: Canon FD (Adaptable to mirrorless)
• Why it’s great: Warm tones, smooth bokeh, and excellent build quality.
• Used Price Range: $100–$150

12. Minolta Rokkor 45mm f/2

• Mount: Minolta MD/MC (Adaptable to mirrorless)
• Why it’s great: Small, sharp, and beautifully built. A hidden gem for mirrorless street shooters.
• Used Price Range: $80–$120

13. Pentax Super-Takumar 55mm f/1.8

• Mount: M42 (Adaptable to mirrorless)
• Why it’s great: Known for its smooth rendering and exceptional build quality.
• Used Price Range: $80–$120

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Tips for Buying Used Street Photography Lenses

1. Inspect Optics: Look for scratches, haze, or fungus on lens elements.
2. Test Focus Rings and Aperture Blades: Ensure smooth rotation and clicky aperture stops.
3. Check Mount Condition: Ensure the mount isn’t bent or excessively worn.
4. Autofocus Speed & Accuracy: For AF lenses, make sure the motor is still responsive.
5. Ask About Return Policies: Especially when buying online, ensure there’s a return window.

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What Focal Length is Best for Street Photography?

• 35mm: The classic street lens, offering a natural field of view with a bit of context.
• 50mm: Ideal for subject isolation and tighter compositions.
• 28mm: For dynamic, wide street scenes where you want to include more environment.
• 40mm: A versatile in-between focal length, popular among rangefinder enthusiasts.

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Why Compact Lenses Matter in Street Photography

In street photography, being discreet is often key to capturing genuine moments. Bulky telephoto lenses not only attract attention but can also make subjects uncomfortable. Compact primes or pancake lenses allow you to blend in, stay agile, and shoot candidly. Lightweight setups are also less tiring during long photo walks.

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Conclusion

Street photography isn’t about having the latest, most expensive gear—it’s about capturing stories, emotions, and fleeting moments. By tapping into the used lens market, you can equip yourself with high-quality optics that deliver professional results on a modest budget.

From the ever-popular Canon 50mm f/1.8 to vintage gems like the Helios 44-2 or the Pentax Super-Takumar, there are countless affordable lenses that allow you to dive into street photography and develop your unique visual style. With thoughtful choices and a bit of patience, you can build a compact, powerful street photography kit that won’t break the bank.

I recently bought a new old lens for one of my cameras on eBay. Everything is fine so far. But I don’t like that the lens has a stinking musty smell. Here you can quickly help yourself with a simple trick. I like old analogue cameras. Every now and then I look at eBay, because these devices are now often sold there at a low price. Recently I have decided to buy a wide-angle lens for my Kiev medium format camera. The lens was apparently perfectly fine too – apparently. Because it actually had a mouldy smell! This was due to the bag in which it was. Unfortunately, this must have been lying in a damp cellar for too long. I didn’t want to do anything with it, so I threw away the bag with the strong musty smell.  The smell of mold had also spread to the lens. But here you can easily help yourself.

Yes, you can easily get out the musty smell with coffee!

So I first looked for a plastic box in the kitchen that my lens would fit. I put this in there. Next, I added some instant coffee. I closed the lid and put the can and its contents down for 24 hours. After this time I opened the can and the musty smell is almost gone! The coffee had so to speak soaked up the smell of mold. The lens now smelled slightly of the instant coffee. But this quickly evaporated.

With this simple trick, it is possible to drive out the notorious musty smell from smaller objects (that have been stored incorrectly or damp). With larger objects (e.g. items of clothing) you would have to take a larger bag like a garbage bag and sprinkle a whole pack of coffee into it. The container must be closed, however – especially when working with instant coffee. Because instant coffee tends to get lumpy and sticky with a constant supply of air! You don’t want it to stick to the objects with the musty smell or leave stains.

Clean your photography equipment with some cheap perfume or aftershave

Attention! Do not pour any liquid directly on your photography equipment, because it may cause internal damage, fungus, electric hazard, etc.!

Put few drops of cheap perfume or aftershave on a microfiber cloth and wipe your equipment carefully. You can use ear buds in places that you can’t access. For inexpensive dirty equipment I often use toothbrush. Let your equipment dry. Don’t put it into a bag yet, but also don’t let it uncovered for days on a direct sunlight because it can collect dust and direct sunlight can damage your sensitive  and expansive device. Also, it can get easily scratched or damaged if you forget it on the table or on the top of your kitchen. Wait for an hour after cleaning and place it in a bag or case, if you don’t use them. It is recommended to have a few small bags of Silica gels silicon dioxide that is absorbing moisture in your camera bag. Do not keep your equipment in rooms where the humidity is high. Keep your room at a normal humidity. You can use room dehumidifier to prevent you cameras and lenses. Yet, for your own health is also important. So find the balance (If your house is above 50% humidity then a dehumidifier is needed. However, if humidity levels are below 30%, a humidifier is needed).  

Prevention – Keep your cameras and lenses dry in bad weather

• Use umbrella
• Waterproof camera covers
• Use lens hoods
• Change lenses under cover
• Wear waterproof clothing

Do you know what the white balance is? But you should, because after the three exposure values ​​( exposure time , aperture , ISO ), white balance is the most important in photography. The other values ​​deal with the brightness of the picture, this deals with the color.

1 The white balance in digital cameras

2 Shoot RAW for better white balance

3 Adjust the white balance manually

4 When do I hire something?

5 The gray card

We need the white balance to compensate for the different light colors. You have probably already noticed yourself, the sunset or a lightbulb is very orange, we go into the cellar and turn on the neon tube, the light is very cold. Our brains can do that and that color difference doesn’t look that extreme.

The white balance is supposed to compensate for this and the aim of the white balance is to make white look white.

This color temperature is given in Kelvin and is very easy to remember with fire. The hotter the fire, the more bluish it becomes. Same with white balance. The hotter / higher I set the Kelvin number, the bluer the picture becomes.

The white balance in digital cameras

At the same time we had to change the camera film to change the white balance. Today a simple adjustment of the camera is sufficient. In many situations, the camera should give a good result with an automatic white balance. It automatically searches for the whitest (most color-neutral point). The camera finds this in most situations and can, if necessary, switch to the brightest point of the image if no suitable neutral point can be found. This point is then used as a reference to correct the color of the image.

Of course there are situations in which the automatic white balance just cannot work. If you photograph sophisticated subjects that do not offer neutral colors, for example, a color cast occurs. This is the case, for example, at night or with a picture that only consists of bright colors.

In all normal situations, the automatic white balance (also AWB) delivers great results. At least for normal demands. But I’ll get to that in a moment 🙂

Shoot RAW for better white balance

The RAW format offers something incredible. Because your camera does not apply color correction until after the photo has been created, we can change it in RAW format. The RAW format is a file that, uncompressed and unchanged, contains all of the information that the camera can capture. The white balance is set, but can be changed without loss in image processing with a RAW file. This does not work with a JPG (except for minimal changes).

Is RAW the solution

Isn’t the solution just to always shoot in RAW and do everything in image processing? Definitely NO. Although I have this option, I almost exclusively take photos using completely manual white balance. The pictures already look good in the camera and I can assess them directly and show them to the customer without editing them beforehand. Everyone gets a much better idea of ​​the result.

Adjust the white balance manually

Like the exposure, the white balance can of course also be set manually. I already said that the automatic does a great job, so why a manual white balance? This is especially important if you want to keep a constant visual style in a report. All images always have the same color scheme and do not change constantly because the camera is of the opinion that the color should now be 1000 K colder.

Furthermore, the coloring can be controlled much more finely. Each camera has its own color scheme. With 100 cameras, different models and manufacturers, you can set everything exactly the same (same exposure / AWB) and still get different results. This can be counteracted by manually setting the white balance. An example: If I take photos in a park at sunset and use the AWB, my pictures are significantly more yellow than with manual 5500 K. That’s why I take photos on 5500K to make the pictures look the way I would like them to. The closer I get to this result, while taking pictures, the less work I have in image processing.

When do I post something?

1. If you are at the beginning of your photography and have not yet understood the concept, put the Karma on AWB and you will get 90% good results.
2. As soon as you already know something better and want to experiment a little, you can apply the defaults or the completely manual value to different situations.
3. If you want to film, you should definitely work with a manual white balance so as not to change the color in the middle of the film.
4. If you want to get the most out of your pictures, deal with white balance in the long term and learn how to apply it to different situations.

The gray card

Now it is getting more professional, because with a gray card we offer the camera a neutral surface with which it can determine the white balance much better. We can say how the white balance should be measured and from where, and get a much more precise result.

Some write that you can have a sheet of white paper or just any white surface. I advise against that. Every surface has a specific color. The wall was painted in eggshell and not in white and it doesn’t work anymore. Who tells you that the sheet of paper is 100% white? Your own eye may even be wrong here. A gray card can help here, but the result will only be perfect with experience and you can get it by trying out 😉

Buying DSLR: What to Look For Are you considering buying a digital single lens reflex (DSLR) camera? Are you looking for the answer for most important questions, you need comprehensive advice and reveal what to look out for when buying – from the equipment to the manufacturer?

Our DSLR buying guide will help you find the right SLR camera.

Digital single-lens reflex cameras (DSLR) deliver the best image quality of all camera types and can be used most flexibly – even if their lead over mirrorless system cameras is shrinking. That’s why more and more amateur photographers are swapping their compact cameras for a DSLR. But which DSLR model is the right one? And which one is right for you?

When buying a DSLR, you choose a system

All SLR camera manufacturers try to retain customers in the long term with inexpensive entry-level DSLRs. Because the fact is: Once you have decided on a brand, you not only buy a camera, but also commit yourself to a system – and later buy suitable lenses, flash units and accessories.

Even if photographic skills and technical requirements for the camera develop further, most photographers remain loyal to the system they have chosen, even as advanced or professional users. Accordingly, you should plan your entry into the world of digital SLR photography carefully.

What does DSLR stand for?

The abbreviation DSLR stands for Digital Single Lens Reflex. In terms of price, the cheapest and most expensive DSLR models easily differ by a factor of 10 – the differences in equipment are correspondingly large.

In this article our team has put together and answered the most important questions for you. So you are well prepared for the purchase of a DSLR camera.

What is the difference between DSLRs and other cameras?

Single-lens reflex cameras offer  two major advantages over compact cameras:

The sensors that record the image are significantly larger. This enables a considerably better image quality.

Instead of permanently installed optics, there are interchangeable lenses. In this way, the camera can be optimally adapted to every imaginable task.

The so-called bridge cameras (also known as megazoomers) play a special role. In size and appearance, they are reminiscent of a DSLR, but in fact they are classic compact cameras with a small sensor and built-in lens that covers a very large range of focal lengths from wide-angle to strong telephoto. In addition, they often offer setting options similar to those of a single lens reflex cameras.

In terms of size and weight, the mirrorless system cameras are between compact cameras and DSLRs. They are still equipped with large sensors and interchangeable lenses and are now equal to DSLRs in terms of image quality.

In general, if you don’t want to worry about camera settings when taking photos, a compact camera that makes all the important settings automatically is ideal for you. However, if you already have a basic knowledge of photography and now attach more importance to high image quality and many setting options, you cannot avoid a SLR model.

What are the advantages of DSLRs?

If it is only the image quality that counts and the purchase price only plays a subordinate role, then SLR cameras are best suited for everything, because they deliver better image quality than a compact camera in all shooting situations.

The less light is available, the greater the quality advantage the DSLR has. They score particularly well in atmospheric twilight or when taking pictures indoors without a flash unit.

A DSLR can be used flexibly thanks to interchangeable lenses (example Canon EOS-1D X Mark II with EF 400mm F2.8 lens).

In addition, DSLRs can be used universally. If you want to take photos carefree, with a suitable zoom lens and the automatic setting you can take photos as carefree as with a compact one. Conversely, thanks to the large number of different lenses and the ability to manually set all recording parameters such as sensitivity, shutter speed and aperture, you are equipped for every conceivable photographic task.

Another advantage that is often overlooked is the excellent ergonomics. The shape and weight of an SLR camera make it easy to hold and the large buttons and wheels make it easy to operate. The small compacts are often fiddly to use the buttons and difficult to hold because of the smooth (because pretty) surface. Compared to DSLRs, compact cameras are smaller, lighter and easier to use.

What are the disadvantages of DSLRs?

Of course there are also disadvantages. Size and weight score points in terms of ergonomics, but the DSLR does not fit in a jacket pocket, but is hung around the neck or carried in the hand. Neither of us does that all the time, so we miss some interesting motifs. And the purchase price of a DSLR with a few additional lenses can quickly be many times that of a compact camera.

Last but not least: Even the otherwise incredibly practical interchangeable lenses can be a disadvantage. If you don’t have the right lens with you or if you change the lens in bad weather, moisture or dirt get into the camera interior and cause problems there.

How do DSLR systems from different manufacturers differ?

Since every manufacturer cooks its own porridge, you are already determined when you start. Let’s say you start with an entry-level housing and two lenses. Then you can later buy a higher quality housing from the same manufacturer and continue to use the lenses without any problems. With a few exceptions, however, the lenses do not fit the bodies of other manufacturers.

Third-party lens manufacturers such as Sigma or Tamron offer their lenses with connections for the models of several camera manufacturers, but a lens built for Canon only fits a Canon and a lens built for Nikon only fits a Nikon.

Flash units are connected via a standardized hot shoe and look as if they can be used across systems, but they are not. Due to the complex automatic functions, you also have to replace the flash unit later when changing the system. In contrast, only simple accessories such as filters or memory cards are completely independent of the camera manufacturer.

Which DSLR systems are there? An overview:

Canon and Nikon are the top dogs in the field of large DSLRs with mirrors. They have most models and cover the entire range from entry-level ( e.g. Canon EOS 1300D , Nikon D3400 ) to professional models ( e.g. Nikon D5 , Canon EOS 5DS and 5DS R ). In addition, they score with the most extensive range of lenses and accessories.

Sony has clearly caught up in terms of depth and breadth of the range in recent years and impresses with many innovations. In addition to classic DSLRs with a fixed mirror (e.g. Sony Alpha 77 II ), they developed there. This construction principle offers a number of advantages, especially when the camera is also used for video filming. However, Sony is focusing more and more on mirrorless system cameras.

Leica, Hasselblad and Pentax with their medium format models serve the professional sector – prices in the high four-digit or five-digit range ensure that. Pentax also has a number of amateur and mid-range models in various categories, from the entry-level K-S2 to the full-frame DSLR1 .

Olympus now completely relies on the more compact models without mirrors, as do Panasonic, Fujifilm and Samsung. Sony, Canon and Nikon now also have such cameras in their ranges

The best SLR cameras with APS-C sensors

Canon, Nikon, Sony and Co: In our gallery we present the currently best DSLRs with APS-C sensors.

Are there DSLRs for specific purposes?

No. The area of ​​application of a DSLR is determined much more by the lens than by the camera itself. And here too, not only the focal length range is decisive, but also the initial opening. It determines the amount of light on the sensor and the depth of field and thus makes a significant contribution to image design.

Special DSLR properties are only required in exceptional cases. This includes:

Sports photography: In addition to a bright and long-focal length telephoto lens, a fast camera is required that can also create longer series with fast image sequences while maintaining sharpness. Professional devices such as the Canon EOS 1Dx or the Nikon D5 can do this.

Video: The top models from Canon and Nikon, on the other hand, are hardly usable for good videos in HD quality. Here, mirrorless system cameras are now more than a nose’s length ahead of DSLRs. The lens must also be optimized for video and quickly adjust the focus without overshooting the target.

Outdoor: If you use the camera in places where sand, water and dirt clog it, it should be a more robust model. They can be found primarily in the professional class with steep prices, but more and more semi-professional DSLRs also offer dust and splash protection.

I still have old lenses from the analog era – is that a purchase criterion?

Some people would say “Under no circumstance!”. New manufacturing techniques make better lenses possible, which is why modern lenses are superior to any “oldie” in terms of imaging performance. If you buy a DSLR because you want to get better pictures, working with old lenses often makes no sense. However, this is not always the true. There are some old vintage lenses that have a good quality and they are most of the time chap too.

Yet, it worths to mention: Even with suitable connections within a system, not all functions are transferred from the housing to the lens and vice versa (compatibility issues). So you lose a considerable part of the automatic functions of a camera.

What trends can be observed?

Buy your DSLR when you need it. The quality has once again improved significantly in recent years and it will remain so in the future. In addition to the trend towards larger sensors – i.e. more full-format cameras – their increasing resolution can also be observed. Faster processors also manage to store more images in less time and with better quality.

In the long term, the trend is increasingly towards mirrorless system cameras . Classic DSLRs are therefore far from being on the “Red List”. Anyone entering the DSLR world today can be sure that they will still be able to access a top quality system in many years’ time.