Posted on

The Incredible Change of the DSLR’s

Incredible Change of the DSLR's

In late 1975, couple of people knew that the world’s very first digital camera had been successfully tested – even within Eastman Kodak Business, where Kodak engineer Steven Sasson spent the bulk of a year establishing an 8 pound model that was the size of a small toaster. The very first photo taken by this first digital cam in December 1975, was in black-and-white and contained only 10,000 pixels– one hundredth of a megapixel. Each image took 23 seconds to tape-record, and a similar quantity of time to pop up for evaluation on a television screen. The age of digital photography had actually started. Naturally, digital electronic cameras of the 1990s were costly, low-resolution gadgets appropriate for specialized applications such as quickie photos you could send out by email or post on a web page (at the “low” ₤ 800) to news pictures of breaking events you might transmit to the editorial staff in minutes (at the stratospheric ₤ 25000 price point). In 2003 and 2004, Canon and Nikon finally made interchangeable lens digital SLR electronic cameras budget friendly with the very first Canon EOS Digital Rebel and Nikon D70 models, which cost around ₤ 800– with lens. DSLRs had actually been offered for years– but now the typical professional photographer could manage to buy one.

■ Full frame is not just for experts anymore.

So-called “full-frame” video cameras– those with 24mm × 36mm sensors sized the like the traditional 35mm film format– are becoming more typical and affordable. Sony currently uses a 24.6 megapixel cam body for less than ₤ 1700, and during the life of this book I expect to see comparable low-priced full-frame designs from Nikon, Canon, and others. Full-frame DSLRs are also prized for their low noise attributes, specifically at greater ISOs, and the more comprehensive perspective they supply with traditional wide-angle lenses. I’ll cover the advantages of the full-frame format later in this chapter.

■ Resolution keeps increasing.

Vendors keep upping the resolution ante to please consumers’ understanding that more pixels are always much better. In practice, obviously, lower resolution electronic cameras often produce exceptional image quality at greater ISO settings, so the megapixel race has been controlled, to an extent, by the need to supply greater resolution, enhanced low-light performance, and extended dynamic variety (the ability to capture detail in dark shadows, intense highlights, and every tone inbetween). The leading resolution cameras will not remain stalled at 25 megapixels for very long (I anticipate 32MP to become the brand-new high-end standard), but we’re rapidly seeing all the mid-level and entry-level electronic cameras migrate to 16– 21MP sensing units. You won’t see numerous electronic cameras with less resolution presented in the future. Obviously, Canon has announced a 120MP 29.2 × 20.2 APS-H (roughly 1.3 X “crop” aspect– more on that later), and a humongous 205mm × 205mm sensor that is 40 times larger than Canon’s biggest business CMOS sensor. (Real resolution of this mega-sensor hasn’t been announced– it will depend on how big the specific pixels are.).

■ ISO sensitivity skyrocketing.

Larger and more sensitive pixels suggest better performance at high ISO settings. Do you truly require ISO 102,400 or ISO 204,800? Definitely, if those ludicrous scores suggest you can get appropriate image quality at ISO 25,600. For concerts and indoor sports events, I’ve standardized on ISO 6400, and have really little problem with visual noise. In tough lighting conditions, ISO 12,800 isn’t out of the question, and ISO 25,600 (which permits 1/1000th second at f/8 or f/11 in some of the gyms where I shoot) is practical.

■ Expert full HDTV video is possible with a DSLR.

The opening title series of Saturday Night Live were shot in HDTV with Canon dSLRs. Director/cinematographer Ross Hockrow shot his latest feature film with those cams. The HDTV abilities of the latest DSLRs aren’t simply a camcorder replacement. If you’re a wedding event professional photographer, you can use them to add video protection to your stills; photojournalists can shoot documentaries; amateur professional photographers can get home from their vacation with once-in-a-lifetime still images and movies that will not put next-door neighbors to sleep, too.

■ Live View has matured.

Just a few years earlier, the ability to sneak peek your images on an LCD screen was a point-and-shoot feature that most digital SLR users could see no requirement for. Today, of course, Live View is a vital part of motion picture shooting, but enhancements like “face detection” (the electronic camera discovers and focuses on the human beings in your image), “subject tracking” (the cam has the ability to follow focus specific subjects shown on the screen as they move), and zoom in (to improve manual concentrating on the LCD screen) can be indispensable in particular circumstances. Something as simple as the capability to focus at any point in the frame (rather than just at the few set focus points marked in the optical viewfinder) can be extremely useful.

■ Sensor cleansing that works.

Each time you change lenses on your dSLR, you permit dust to get in the video camera body and, potentially, make its way past the shutter and onto the sensing unit. Every digital SLR introduced in the past few years has a “shaker” system built into the sensing unit that does a respectable job of getting rid of dust and artifacts prior to it can appear on your images. You’ll still need to by hand clean your sensing unit from time to time, but the task can be carried out monthly (or less often), instead of daily or weekly.

■ Image stabilization.

Camera motion contributes to fuzzy photos. Enhancing anti-shake settlement by developing it into a lens suggests you need to pay for image stabilization (IS) in every lens you buy. An increasing number of vendors are developing IS into the cam body in the form of a sensing unit that moves to counter cam motion. “one-size-fits-all” image stabilization does not work as well with every lens that can be installed on a camera, but suppliers are learning to change the amount/type of in-camera IS for various focal lengths.

■ Marginalia.

Other sensor enhancements have actually been talked about, and, in some cases, even implemented, without generating much enjoyment. Foveon continues to enhance its “direct image” sensors, with different red, green, and blue layers that enable each pixel to find among the primaries. (” Regular” sensors are segmented into a variety in which each pixel can detect either red, green, or blue, and the “missing” info for an offered photosite inserted mathematically.) But, couple of individuals are purchasing the Sigma cams that use these sensors. Suppliers continue to improve the small “microlenses” so they can focus assembling light rays on the photosites more effectively. CMOS sensors have basically replaced their CCD equivalents, for factors that no one appreciates any longer. None of these enhancements are as interesting as the others I have actually listed in this area.

Posted on

Telephoto lens advice

Telephoto lens advice


What is a telephoto lens?

To put it simply, a telephoto lens is a lens that brings subjects up close. The focal length starts here at 80mm and has no real upper limit. Increasing the focal length changes the depth of an image significantly. The further the focal length moves into the telephoto range, the blurrier the background becomes and the larger the background becomes compared to the subject.

The area of ​​application

There are different areas of application for telephoto lenses, which depend somewhat on the actual focal length . A lot is possible between 80 and over 1000mm focal length .

Telephoto lens for portrait

The effect that telephoto lenses bring with them makes them great for portraits. They separate the person very well from the background and provide significantly more blurring in the background. You have to go a little farther away than you have to with a wide angle or normal lens , but you can clearly see the difference.

As you can see in the example images, increasing the focal length gives you significantly less background on the image. The second effect is the blurring. Although the picture was taken at 200mm with aperture 5, the background looks blurred and the subject stands out much better. However, since it is difficult to photograph a portrait at 200mm and there is often simply no space for this, a telephoto focal length between 80 and 130mm is often used in portrait photography .

Standard telephoto lens

The standard telephoto lens is in the focal length range up to 200mm and is used in travel, nature and sports photography. In this focal length range, you remain unnoticed as a photographer and can simply bring distant subjects closer. When buying, it is worth paying attention to a large open aperture and an image stabilizer, but more on that later.

Super telephoto lens

The super telephoto lens goes far beyond 200mm and is intended for large distances between the subject and the photographer. If something is very far away, it is worth using a super telephoto. The longer the focal length, of course, the stronger the effects that you get through the telephoto lens.

The cons / limitations

There is actually nothing in photography that has only advantages. It is of course the same with the telephoto lens.

Exposure time

The larger the focal length , the faster the exposure time has to be in order not to blur the image. In theory, as explained in the article on the exposure time , at 600mm, for example, 1/600 sec. That is extremely fast, especially in poor light situations, and naturally makes the picture dark. As a result, we usually have to go up with the ISO value or use a tripod.

An image stabilizer can of course also help here and so you can take photos with your free hand with 1/250 of a second, as in this example.


If you want to take photos from the free hand, you should be aware of one thing. Telephoto lenses are extremely heavy. Yes, not all of them, but you can quickly achieve a decent weight and of course a corresponding size that is not exactly easy to transport.

A tripod is extremely helpful here and you can take pictures of yourself in one place and from there. You can get close enough because of the long focal length .


If you don’t feel like taking a huge telephoto lens everywhere with you, I have a tip for you. Use a teleconverter. With a telecoverter, the focal length can be extended, but this has disadvantages. I already said: everything has its disadvantages. Depending on the converter, the lens loses 1-2 stops of light intensity.

However, you can combine these and turn a fast 100mm lens into a 200 or even 400mm lens very quickly.

Posted on

Camera Hardware Improvements for DSLR’s

Camera Hardware Improvements for DSLR's

Naturally, the terrific strides forward in digital SLR innovation (and digital photography in general) aren’t restricted to sensor advancements. Other elements of the electronic cameras, including lenses and devices, have seen significant enhancements, too. Here are some of the most important:

Digital Signal Processing (DSP) chips

As sensors get more and much better information, advanced signal processing chips have actually to be developed to transform the analogue information caught to digital format, while enhancing it to produce much better images. Some cams have two DSP chips to improve throughput even more.

Built-in High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography

Among the limitations of digital sensors is their inability to tape-record details in both the brightest highlights and darkest shadows at the same time. Some suppliers, consisting of Sony, are pioneering electronic cameras with the capability to snap off several exposures in a row, and after that integrate them to produce an optimized, “HDR” image. Within a few years, I expect that either sensing units will improve to the point where built-in HDR isn’t needed or, if not, this will end up being a basic feature in all DSLRs.

Global positioning system (GPS) tagging

Almost any DSLR can be fitted with some sort of GPS tagging device. There are a lot of reasons marking each picture with information on where and when it was taken is useful that GPS tagging need to be a basic feature within five years, also.

More common WiFi assistance

Anticipate to see more cameras with assistance for WiFi, either constructed right into the electronic camera, or, as is now the case, in the form of menu setup options (discovered in numerous Canon and Nikon DSLRs) readily available to anyone who inserts an Eye-Fi card in their video camera (The Eye-Fi company ceased business in 2016, yet, there are other alternatives). Today, you can upload your images immediately to any social media, immediately, as you shoot, if you lie near a WiFi hotspot. When “tethering” becomes more prevalent, your camera will piggyback onto the instant WiFi hotspots that will be offered by your iPad/tablet computer system, smart device, MiFi gizmo, or other gadget no matter where you are.

Storage innovations

More cams have double memory card slots, enabling you to shoot longer (utilizing “overflow” mode); replicate your images onto two cards for security or instant sharing (in “backup” mode); or do even more effective backup by saving RAW files on one card, and a JPEG variation on the other. Some electronic cameras allow you to choose which of your 2 cards will be utilized for, state, movies, which benefit from storage on “faster” memory cards (if the pair in your cam are unequal in speed). Naturally, capacities and speeds of the cards themselves are enhancing: 64GB Compact Flash and Secure Digital cards have actually lastly become budget-friendly, and new requirements with higher capacities and faster speeds, like SDXC have promise when more video cameras (and other gadgets) support them. Nikon, SanDisk, and Sony have unveiled specifications for a much faster type of Compact Flash sd card, too, with transfer rates of as much as 500MB/s, instead of the 167MB/s limit of the most current Compact Flash 6.0 requirement.

3D photography

Now we’re seeing 3D tv sets, and cameras from vendors like Sony that can produce 3D images using a single optical system (although you may have to view them in the electronic camera, doing not have an easy alternative playback system). My opinion is that 3D imaging will peak as soon as again really soon and then die away up until the next hardware innovation comes along that makes it slightly less impractical than today.

Other Bits and Pieces

Digital SLRs are ending up being smaller in size, particularly in the area of Four Thirds format cameras. More cameras have rotating LCDs that let you adjust your angle of view for Live View shooting or image evaluation.

Rise of the anti-DSLR

So-called electronic-viewfinder/interchangeable lens (EVIL) video cameras are changing DSLRs for some applications where compact size is valued. These cams do not have a mirror. Sony has already introduced slightly bulkier cameras that do have a mirror, but which use the non-moving, semi-transparent mirror to bounce part of the light to an auto-focusing part instead of to a watching system.

Posted on

DSLR camera purchase advice

DSLR camera purchase advice

Buying DSLR: What to Look For

Are you considering buying a digital single lens reflex (DSLR) camera? Are you looking for the answer for most important questions, you need comprehensive advice and reveal what to look out for when buying – from the equipment to the manufacturer?

Our DSLR buying guide will help you find the right SLR camera.

Digital single-lens reflex cameras (DSLR) deliver the best image quality of all camera types and can be used most flexibly – even if their lead over mirrorless system cameras is shrinking. That’s why more and more amateur photographers are swapping their compact cameras for a DSLR. But which DSLR model is the right one? And which one is right for you?

When buying a DSLR, you choose a system

All SLR camera manufacturers try to retain customers in the long term with inexpensive entry-level DSLRs. Because the fact is: Once you have decided on a brand, you not only buy a camera, but also commit yourself to a system – and later buy suitable lenses, flash units and accessories.

Even if photographic skills and technical requirements for the camera develop further, most photographers remain loyal to the system they have chosen, even as advanced or professional users. Accordingly, you should plan your entry into the world of digital SLR photography carefully.

What does DSLR stand for?

The abbreviation DSLR stands for Digital Single Lens Reflex. In terms of price, the cheapest and most expensive DSLR models easily differ by a factor of 10 – the differences in equipment are correspondingly large.

In this article our team has put together and answered the most important questions for you. So you are well prepared for the purchase of a DSLR camera.

What is the difference between DSLRs and other cameras?

Single-lens reflex cameras offer  two major advantages over compact cameras:

The sensors that record the image are significantly larger. This enables a considerably better image quality.

Instead of permanently installed optics, there are interchangeable lenses. In this way, the camera can be optimally adapted to every imaginable task.

The so-called bridge cameras (also known as megazoomers) play a special role. In size and appearance, they are reminiscent of a DSLR, but in fact they are classic compact cameras with a small sensor and built-in lens that covers a very large range of focal lengths from wide-angle to strong telephoto. In addition, they often offer setting options similar to those of a single lens reflex cameras.

In terms of size and weight, the mirrorless system cameras are between compact cameras and DSLRs. They are still equipped with large sensors and interchangeable lenses and are now equal to DSLRs in terms of image quality.

In general, if you don’t want to worry about camera settings when taking photos, a compact camera that makes all the important settings automatically is ideal for you. However, if you already have a basic knowledge of photography and now attach more importance to high image quality and many setting options, you cannot avoid a SLR model.

What are the advantages of DSLRs?

If it is only the image quality that counts and the purchase price only plays a subordinate role, then SLR cameras are best suited for everything, because they deliver better image quality than a compact camera in all shooting situations.

The less light is available, the greater the quality advantage the DSLR has. They score particularly well in atmospheric twilight or when taking pictures indoors without a flash unit.

A DSLR can be used flexibly thanks to interchangeable lenses (example Canon EOS-1D X Mark II with EF 400mm F2.8 lens).

In addition, DSLRs can be used universally. If you want to take photos carefree, with a suitable zoom lens and the automatic setting you can take photos as carefree as with a compact one. Conversely, thanks to the large number of different lenses and the ability to manually set all recording parameters such as sensitivity, shutter speed and aperture, you are equipped for every conceivable photographic task.

Another advantage that is often overlooked is the excellent ergonomics. The shape and weight of an SLR camera make it easy to hold and the large buttons and wheels make it easy to operate. The small compacts are often fiddly to use the buttons and difficult to hold because of the smooth (because pretty) surface. Compared to DSLRs, compact cameras are smaller, lighter and easier to use.

What are the disadvantages of DSLRs?

Of course there are also disadvantages. Size and weight score points in terms of ergonomics, but the DSLR does not fit in a jacket pocket, but is hung around the neck or carried in the hand. Neither of us does that all the time, so we miss some interesting motifs. And the purchase price of a DSLR with a few additional lenses can quickly be many times that of a compact camera.

Last but not least: Even the otherwise incredibly practical interchangeable lenses can be a disadvantage. If you don’t have the right lens with you or if you change the lens in bad weather, moisture or dirt get into the camera interior and cause problems there.

How do DSLR systems from different manufacturers differ?

Since every manufacturer cooks its own porridge, you are already determined when you start. Let’s say you start with an entry-level housing and two lenses. Then you can later buy a higher quality housing from the same manufacturer and continue to use the lenses without any problems. With a few exceptions, however, the lenses do not fit the bodies of other manufacturers.

Third-party lens manufacturers such as Sigma or Tamron offer their lenses with connections for the models of several camera manufacturers, but a lens built for Canon only fits a Canon and a lens built for Nikon only fits a Nikon.

Flash units are connected via a standardized hot shoe and look as if they can be used across systems, but they are not. Due to the complex automatic functions, you also have to replace the flash unit later when changing the system. In contrast, only simple accessories such as filters or memory cards are completely independent of the camera manufacturer.

Which DSLR systems are there? An overview:

Canon and Nikon are the top dogs in the field of large DSLRs with mirrors. They have most models and cover the entire range from entry-level ( e.g. Canon EOS 1300D , Nikon D3400 ) to professional models ( e.g. Nikon D5 , Canon EOS 5DS and 5DS R ). In addition, they score with the most extensive range of lenses and accessories.

Sony has clearly caught up in terms of depth and breadth of the range in recent years and impresses with many innovations. In addition to classic DSLRs with a fixed mirror (e.g. Sony Alpha 77 II ), they developed there. This construction principle offers a number of advantages, especially when the camera is also used for video filming. However, Sony is focusing more and more on mirrorless system cameras.

Leica, Hasselblad and Pentax with their medium format models serve the professional sector – prices in the high four-digit or five-digit range ensure that. Pentax also has a number of amateur and mid-range models in various categories, from the entry-level K-S2 to the full-frame DSLR1 .

Olympus now completely relies on the more compact models without mirrors, as do Panasonic, Fujifilm and Samsung. Sony, Canon and Nikon now also have such cameras in their ranges

The best SLR cameras with APS-C sensors

Canon, Nikon, Sony and Co: In our gallery we present the currently best DSLRs with APS-C sensors.

Are there DSLRs for specific purposes?

No. The area of ​​application of a DSLR is determined much more by the lens than by the camera itself. And here too, not only the focal length range is decisive, but also the initial opening. It determines the amount of light on the sensor and the depth of field and thus makes a significant contribution to image design.

Special DSLR properties are only required in exceptional cases. This includes:

Sports photography: In addition to a bright and long-focal length telephoto lens, a fast camera is required that can also create longer series with fast image sequences while maintaining sharpness. Professional devices such as the Canon EOS 1Dx or the Nikon D5 can do this.

Video: The top models from Canon and Nikon, on the other hand, are hardly usable for good videos in HD quality. Here, mirrorless system cameras are now more than a nose’s length ahead of DSLRs. The lens must also be optimized for video and quickly adjust the focus without overshooting the target.

Outdoor: If you use the camera in places where sand, water and dirt clog it, it should be a more robust model. They can be found primarily in the professional class with steep prices, but more and more semi-professional DSLRs also offer dust and splash protection.

I still have old lenses from the analog era – is that a purchase criterion?

Some people would say “Under no circumstance!”. New manufacturing techniques make better lenses possible, which is why modern lenses are superior to any “oldie” in terms of imaging performance. If you buy a DSLR because you want to get better pictures, working with old lenses often makes no sense. However, this is not always the true. There are some old vintage lenses that have a good quality and they are most of the time chap too.

Yet, it worths to mention: Even with suitable connections within a system, not all functions are transferred from the housing to the lens and vice versa (compatibility issues). So you lose a considerable part of the automatic functions of a camera.

What trends can be observed?

Buy your DSLR when you need it. The quality has once again improved significantly in recent years and it will remain so in the future. In addition to the trend towards larger sensors – i.e. more full-format cameras – their increasing resolution can also be observed. Faster processors also manage to store more images in less time and with better quality.

In the long term, the trend is increasingly towards mirrorless system cameras . Classic DSLRs are therefore far from being on the “Red List”. Anyone entering the DSLR world today can be sure that they will still be able to access a top quality system in many years’ time.

Posted on

15 tips to Learn to take photos

tips to Learn to take photos

Are you looking for tips for better pictures? Do you want to learn photography and take better photos? Here I have 15 tips for cool photo tips for you. This makes learning photography child’s play.

Well, maybe I am a bit over the top. Because learning to take photos above all requires a lot of practice. But there are already a few tips that will help you on the way to better photos – basically the basics of photography or a great overview for beginners.

And one more word about your path into photography. We do almost everything out of habit. So when you think about your goal: I WANT TO LEARN TO PHOTOGRAPHY, then above all you should work on your habits! Make your vision or goal a habit – keep your camera on hand, daily or at least weekly. Try out new things but also get a routine in camera technology..

In this photography article for beginners, you will teach you some basic step by step important photography basics about aperture, ISO, focus, exposure time and light meter. You will learn how your camera takes a picture, regardless of whether it is a single lens reflex camera, system camera or compact camera.

1. Every photo needs a foreground

Bring depth to your photo. They also say: Every photo needs a foreground. So look for objects in the foreground of your photo. It can be a rock, a stone, a fence or a bush. That opens your picture and guides the gaze. Foreground is the portion of the frame that is closest to the camera. The foreground space in an image can be utilized to draw attention to a subject located further into the frame

A railing can be a perfect foreground, even if it’s only partially visible!

2. Give your photo a frame

A natural frame helps your composition. This can be an archway, a hedge or a group of people. So frame your photo! This also gives your photo depth. I also have a great photo task for you on the subject of “Give your photo a frame” !

A frame increases the depth of your photo

3. Get close!

Dare to approach your subject. Your photo wins by being close. Unimportant picture elements are eliminated and the view of the essentials increases.

Get close! Proximity increases the effect of the picture.

4. Zoom in with your feet

Wow, I can zoom in on it super cool. Nice to pull up the photo in the mobile phone. Huh, everything out of focus?! Remember that every zoom and telephoto effect often always has a loss of quality. So zoom in with your feet. Because then the quality is retained!

Too far away? Then get closer – instead of always zooming!

5. Pay attention to the direction

The eye always wants to follow the direction. No matter whether in the run, in the flight path or something similar. So your photographed object should always leave room for direction. For example, let the person walk into the picture, not out.

I tried to pay attention to the running direction in the running photos. Leave room!

6. In the dark with a tripod

Photos in the dark should generally always be taken with a tripod. Because in long exposure it is not possible for you to hold the camera without shaking. Nowadays, of course, many cameras can achieve infinitely high ISO values, but as a rule, the lower the ISO value, the lower the image noise. And above all, you can compose great photos in the long exposure with the remote release.

Better to use a tripod in the dark!

7. Do not cut off the feet

I often (only) pay attention to the face when photographing people. But in the full body portrait you should develop a view of the big picture of the subject. So do not accidentally cut off your feet, arms or legs.

If you’re taking full body shots, don’t cut off their feet!

8. Hard light and soft light

You should teach yourself to control the light. Because then you have learned one of the most important rules. Soft light gives your photo a natural mood, but hard light can also be totally exciting. Also you can use a flash diffuser.

9. Create tension and curiosity

If you don’t show everything, then you leave the viewer room for speculation. Much is completed in the head. But that is exactly what can create tension and curiosity.

A clever cut in particular can create a lot of tension.

10. Focus on the eyes

The eyes often determine the portrait. That’s why I always focus on the eyes in portrait photography. I also often choose a large aperture in order to have a lot of blurring in the background and thus additionally emphasize the eyes.A focus on the eyes combined with a large aperture and blurring can create tension.

11. Check the sharpness

Nothing is more annoying than blurry images when you have planned it differently. Consistent sharpness is particularly desirable in landscape photography or architectural photography. So check the sharpness during and immediately after the photo. Otherwise, vary the aperture to achieve a greater depth of field.

12. Go at eye level

Go on eye level with your subject. This is especially true for children, animals and flowers. The result is much more authentic images!

Go at eye level. This gives your photo a much more natural look!

13. Get out of the middle

Avoid placing them in the center of the picture. Better to take photos according to the rule of thirds. Visual balance is always important.

The eye perceives a placement according to the rule of thirds as very pleasant and exciting.

14. Use natural light

Light composes your photo. And if you want a natural, authentic photo here, then try to get as much natural light as possible.

It’s all about natural light

15. Pay attention to shapes

There are shapes everywhere. You can find circles, rectangles, triangles and much more everywhere. Even if you don’t recognize it right away, develop an eye for shapes in your photo. This will help you.