Tag: lenses

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Quality criteria for lenses

Quality criteria for lenses

How do you find the perfect lens? To be honest: I have no answer to that. But I can show you how to find the right lens. I have a couple of criteria that are crucial for this.

Quality of the lens

With lenses, of course, the first impression counts. What material was used for the lens? There are lenses that are made from 100% plastic; even the glasses. Now it depends on your requirements. It is not bad to use a cheap lens, but if you want to take photos in the rainforest, I would advise against such a lens.

For beginners, I recommend a cheap zoom lens or a fixed focal length. If you are in the advanced field or even in the professional field, you should rely on first-class workmanship and weatherproof lenses, especially when it comes to sharpness and strong weather influences.

Most manufacturers have special series for this, such as the Sigma ART series, the Canon L series or the Nikon series with the golden ring on the lens. These are built in such a way that they can withstand dust, dirt, moisture and temperature fluctuations much better.

Focal length

The focal length is not decisive for the quality of a lens, but you should definitely include it when planning your lens purchase. This should match the area and the way you are photographing. There is no point in buying a lens that covers every focal length . On the one hand it makes a lazy photographer and on the other hand the quality drops. If the lens can cover a larger focal length range, you usually have a dull picture and a lower light intensity.

Extreme focal lengths also have an impact on quality. If the focal length is in the extreme wide-angle or telephoto range, the lenses are often very expensive or quality losses can be expected. This can be blurring or distortion.

Light intensity or maximum aperture

The light intensity is decisive for many when it comes to lenses. With a high light intensity, you can open the aperture wider and get significantly more light on the image sensor. This makes it possible to take pictures in dark light situations without increasing the ISO value .

So if you often take photos in such situations or if you have a blurry background (i.e. you need a shallow depth of field) you should pay attention to an appropriate aperture .

The aperture can be opened much wider, especially with fixed focal lengths . With zoom lenses, a corresponding revelation is usually associated with a higher price.

Sharpness

From my point of view, this is extremely important. If the lens is sharp, you get completely different images. This cannot really be copied with image processing.

With different glasses and significantly better processing, a completely different sharpness and a completely different contrast can be achieved.

I can promise you that here, of course, but what do you think if I just show you. The following images are both unprocessed and not sharpened. One was made with a € 100 prime lens and the other was made with a € 750 prime lens.

Optical resolution

Let me elaborate on the previous part. Because what we perceive as sharpness is called optical resolution. This optical resolution indicates how many lines the lens can display. It’s kind of like an eye test at an ophthalmologist. The finer the lines that can be displayed, the higher the optical resolution.

I have the following opinion on this: The lens should match the camera. It is much more beneficial to use a high-quality lens on a cheap camera than the other way around. Sure, 50 megapixels sound great in a camera, but if the lens can’t reproduce it, they won’t do anything. The many pixels on your camera are then just mud.

But don’t just rely on laboratory tests. Try lenses for yourself.

Bokeh

Bokeh not always back. Anyone who thinks that this is just a blurry background will quickly be taught better. Because depending on the lens, you get a completely different blur in the background. But let me show you more in the following example.

In this picture you can see the 50mm 1.8 from Canon and the 50mm 1.2 from Canon. Both set to f / 1.8. If you pay close attention, you will see that the 50mm 1.2 has a much softer background. Of course there is about 1000 € between the two lenses, but I wanted to demonstrate that you get a completely different bokeh .

If you can’t really see that difference now, then you don’t really need to worry about a more expensive lens. At least as far as the bokeh is concerned 😉

Close focus limit

This is interesting for all macro photographers.

Every lens has a close focus limit. This unit describes the minimum distance between the subject and the image sensor. If the subject is closer to the sensor, the lens can no longer focus and the image becomes blurred. Incidentally, it does not matter whether you focus manually or automatically.

So if you like to get close to your subject, you should pay attention to this value and combine it with the correct focal length . A minimum distance of 2.2 meters sounds a lot, unless you use a focal length of 600mm. It all depends on the right combination.

Autofocus

Auto focus is very important with a lens. Of course, otherwise, all images would be out of focus, but what exactly makes a good autofocus?

Speed

Faster is better? In any case, it should also be precise. It’s not just up to the camera how fast your autofocus is, the lens also has a part in it. Because the glass elements in a lens have to be moved in order to change the focus. A more powerful engine or a more sophisticated system can change a lot here and be decisive for a sharp photo.

Precision

What good is a great lens if it is often wrong? Well, it’s not normal for lenses to be wrong, but there’s a moment when they do. This is due to the back or front focus. With DSLR cameras, this is to blame for the fact that your subject can be blurred. This can often be adjusted with cameras, but it is laborious and not possible with every camera model.

Balance front or back focus

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Incidentally, this problem does not exist with DSLM cameras. Due to their design, these are not prone to this error.

But why am I addressing this topic? With third-party manufacturers in particular, it can often happen that the focus is far off. This became known especially at Sigma with the 35mm 1.4. This lens is only half the price of the Canon original, but many have complained that the autofocus failed and went wrong far too often. Once calibrated and the lens is just awesome…

Noise

Probably less important for most people, but if you want to film or take photos in an environment in which you should avoid loud noises, this point is important. I recommend an ultrasonic motor  here. This technology ensures almost silent focusing.

Image stabilizer

The image stabilizer is a great tool that offers great support, especially in low light or high focal lengths. But it is not only there to avoid blurring with the free hand, but also to be able to expose longer. You may still remember the rule of thumb from the exposure time . If we apply this, we can only expose for a certain time. What if we want to expose longer? Then an image stabilizer can help 🙂

A good image stabilizer can give you a buffer of 2, 3 or even 4 f-stops in exposure time . If we apply the reciprocal shutter speed rule, in which the exposure time corresponds at least to the focal length , we come to the following result.

Focal lengthmin. timeStabi 2 panelsStabi 4 panels
25mm1/251/81/2
100mm1/1001/251/6
200mm1/2001/501/13
400mm1/4001/1001/25

So if you often shoot in situations where you are photographing still subjects on your free hand, you should definitely consider using an image stabilizer. It is helpful in many other situations as well. You will almost always benefit from an image stabilizer and if not, it can simply be switched off 😉

Distortion

Most lens distortion occurs in the wide-angle range. Then the edges of the picture are shown distorted and your motifs are unreal. If you like to photograph architecture, that’s something extremely annoying and the photo quickly looks unprofessional and ugly.

Even if these errors can often be corrected easily in image processing, it doesn’t do any harm to have a lens that does not allow such errors in the first place. Above a certain price range, the distortion becomes less and less and sometimes disappears completely. But remember: The whole thing is based on physics. This can only be tricked to a certain extent. This means that from a certain focal length it does not matter how expensive your lens is, such distortions occur.

The extreme example with an 11mm fisheye lens

Vignetting

In addition to the optical distortion, it can happen with lenses that the edges of the image are darkened or blurred. The darkening is something that I actually really like. In portrait photography in particular, this effect ensures that the viewer’s gaze focuses more on the center of the picture and the subject. If you want to place the motif in a different place, that is again unfavorable. However, at least the dark edges of the image can be easily removed in image processing.

Stray light

Have you ever photographed in the sun with your mobile phone and the picture was simply outshone and nothing really visible? That’s a different matter with high-quality lenses. Extreme light situations and backlighting in particular ensure significantly less reflection and a natural contrast with the appropriate compensation and value .

Chromatic aberration

Chromatic aberration is a color fringing that can appear on contours. But don’t worry, you can get a grip on this quite easily in image processing.

Now what’s a good lens?

Unfortunately, I can’t tell you that, because this feeling is completely subjective. Everyone has different demands on their lenses and different ideas about a good lens. However, I have a few tips on how to use the previous points to find exactly what you are looking for. Even if the last points sounded like everything could easily be corrected while editing, it is definitely not so. A good lens can make a difference like day and night. You don’t believe me

Borrow lenses before you buy them!

Borrow a lens before you buy it. But not just any run-of-the-mill lens. Also take a high quality one. My world and my understanding of good pictures changed completely when I tested the Canon 50mm 1.2. I didn’t buy it and went for a Sigma lens, but it’s worth it just to find out what’s possible.

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The Digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera purchase advice

The camera with the most widespread use is the single-lens reflex camera or DSLR. It is suitable for a large number of photographers and can be used both in the beginner area and in the professional environment. In this article we will clarify whether a SLR camera is worthwhile for you or not. Finally, I would like to recommend a few DSLRs that are particularly suitable for beginners, but also for advanced users and professionals. But remember: a better camera doesn’t make a better photographer. It doesn’t hurt to start small and adapt your equipment to your experience. Your driving school car didn’t have 800PS either 😉

How does a DSLR work?

The mirror reflex camera is a camera that works with a mirror. DSLR stands for D igital S ingle- L ens R eflex. The mirror comes from the analog era, because back then you had to be able to look through the lens without exposing the film. The mirror is thus the switch between the optical viewfinder and the image sensor.

If the DSLR camera is switched off (or has nothing to do), the mirror is also folded down and we can look through the lens through our viewfinder. The moment we take a photo, the mirror folds up, covers the viewfinder and releases the image sensor. Then it folds down again. That is the reason why you sometimes see nothing with DSLRs while taking pictures.

Tips for taking photos with the DSLR

I would definitely advise you to use the viewfinder, although many cameras can also show the image live on the display thanks to digital technology. The disadvantage of the display, however, is that it is reflective and sometimes makes it difficult to see something. Of course, we don’t have that with the viewfinder 😉 these cameras are also built to take photos with the viewfinder. The complete autofocus and the power of these cameras are in here and it is definitely worth keeping the display outside.

 Advantages of the SLR camera

high image quality

To put it simply, a larger image sensor often results in better image quality. Well, the smallest image sensor in a DSLR is an APS-C sensor. These sensors are far superior to those of compact cameras. Due to their large size, they have a higher resolution or can handle more megapixels much better than their smaller colleagues from the compact camera. The reason for this is that with a larger sensor, more light per pixel arrives and that ensures a significantly better quality, especially in poor lighting conditions.

In good situations, all cameras can deliver a good result, but in every one? This is something demanding, which usually requires appropriate equipment.

Versatility of the DSLR

An SLR can do everything. Due to the possibility of interchangeable lenses and the almost endless setting options, we can use them in every area, which is also the reason that they can be found in every area. By screwing on another lens, we can bring distant subjects closer or capture gigantic landscapes in a single photo. The setting options of the DSLR are not only aperture , ISO and exposure time , but also white balance , autofocus and so much more. As a result, they are definitely superior to compact cameras, which were made for everything, but which cannot be specialized in one particular area.

Battery life

I still compare the subject with compact cameras, because DSLRs and DSLMs represent the next step after a compact camera or smartphone. The battery life is definitely enormous. How long can your cell phone or compact camera run before you need a new one? For me it is 7-8 hours (with two rechargeable batteries in the battery grip) and up to 4000 photos. The whole thing depends a bit on the situation, but many should realize that it is significantly more than what is possible with cheap cameras. So a big plus for the DSLR.

Speed

Probably the most important point from my point of view. So as a professional you have completely different demands on the camera. But even for beginners it is a huge advantage if the camera does not have to think for 1-2 seconds after triggering before we can look at a picture, but if everything is displayed immediately and live. I’m not talking about as many pictures as possible in the serial picture, but about general handling. Do you always want to wait a moment for a picture to appear? Or until the camera has finally written the image to the memory card? Probably not … But there is more, because the autofocus is of course much faster and more reliable. Setting the focus in milliseconds ensures that you really don’t miss any more moments!

Lenses

Maybe someone knows this well-known picture, which shows Canon’s lens park. This gigantic mass of lenses also gives us an incredible number of possibilities. There is a suitable lens for every situation, so nothing is left to be desired. What is often solved with an extreme zoom lens in compact cameras can now be solved with a variety of specialized lenses. But of course you don’t always have to go to the actual manufacturer of the camera if you want the right lens. You can also work with third-party manufacturers such as Tamron or Sigma. These offer a wonderful and, above all, often cheaper alternative.

Disadvantages of the DSLR

Nothing is perfect. Of course, the SLR camera also has disadvantages and I’ll show you a few reasons why you shouldn’t use DLSRs right away.

Weight and height

Please do not get me wrong. There are also small lenses and small DSLR cameras, but for many this factor is crucial. Imagine you are planning a vacation and you have to prevent a camera with 3 lenses in your luggage … A compact camera would be tempting. For example: a good full frame DSLR with a standard lens.

  • Canon 700d + KIT: approx. 800g
  • Canon 6d II + 50 1.2 + 35 1.4 + 24-70 2.8: 2.8 kg

These are all exemplary values ​​now, but larger cameras and lenses ensure that they take up more space and of course additional weight. It doesn’t really matter whether you use the DSLR or a system camera (DSLM). The DSLM is slightly ahead here, but in the end that doesn’t mean much. You have to be aware that you have a big and heavy camera with you.

Your own claim

This is something that I noticed again and again on my photo trips. When I travel with a DSLR, I need to take good photos. Over time you start to professionalize everything and look for the perfect photo. After all, a huge camera was dragged around with you all the time that cost several thousand yours. So why should you photograph something that you could have photographed with your mobile phone? Maybe it’s just me, but it can happen to you that you develop too high demands on your pictures and start to forget the actual memories and just stop taking those typical mobile phone photos.

Who should buy a DSLR?

A DLSR is not for everyone. If you are looking for a point and shoot camera, you should go for a compact camera. We are in an area where our purchase was unnecessary if we did not capitalize on the potential of this camera. So who is an SLR camera for?

  • Ambitious beginners who want a lot of performance for little money should use a DSLR or DSLM.
  • If you want a camera system that you can upgrade easily. (with new lenses or purchased lenses fit on new cameras again)
  • You are looking for an extremely wide range of accessories. Because the DSLR / DSLM market is extremely large and there is actually nothing that does not exist 😉
  • You want to rely on reliability and speed.

Some buy recommendations

Entry-level DSLRs

If you are looking for a cheap entry into DSLRs, the three-digit models from Canon or Nikon are very well served. Here you can get the models even cheaper if you buy older used ones. Canon’s 650d is still a good camera today!

Canon cameras with KIT lens: Canon 2000D * – Canon 1300D *  – Canon 800D *

Nikon cameras with KIT lens: Nikon D5300 * – Nikon D5100 *

Sony cameras with KIT lens: Sony Alpha 68 *

Advanced DSLRS

Canon camera with KIT lens: Canon 77D *

Nikon camera with KIT lens: Nikon D7200 *

Professional DSLRs with full frame sensors

Canon full format entry: 6D II + kit lens *

Nikon full frame entry: D750 *

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Wide angle lens – lens advice

Wide angle lens - lens advice

What is a wide angle lens?

All lenses with a very short focal length are called wide-angle . The focal length here is roughly between 10mm & 40mm. But what does that mean? Such a short focal length has a significantly larger angle of view than the human eye. We would have to turn our heads to capture the entire scene (or use both eyes 😉) The camera can capture all of this in one picture. So we can easily get a very large subject or a normal subject with little space in one picture.

What can I use a wide angle lens for?

Wide-angle lenses are very popular in landscape photography, but can be used in all areas. Whenever you have a large subject or there is not much space available, a wide angle is used. It can now be a gigantic landscape, a large building, or a small apartment that is to be rented out. Yes, it is also great to use a wide-angle lens in a small apartment, because it not only makes the apartment look bigger, but is also the only way to get the entire space in the picture.

In which areas is a wide angle still used?

Actually, whenever I want to show a lot of the surroundings. This can of course also be the case with a portrait. As you can see in this example, you can see the details in the picture as well as an incredible amount of the background. If I go more into the partial area and use a 35mm lens instead of a 17mm, we still have a lot of background in the picture, but significantly less than before.

Wide angle shot at 35mm

Wide angle shot at 17mm

The wide angle effect

Taking pictures with one has a certain effect on your pictures. First of all, everything seems bigger. The distance between the individual elements in your photo looks like there are several meters between them. The smaller the focal length, the stronger this effect is.

Subjects that are very close to the camera appear very large and puffed up and the further you are away from the camera, the smaller everything looks. I have the following example for you.

The arm in the picture looks huge, but the head is almost normal

Wide angle distortion

The extreme angle of view that a wide-angle lens brings with it not only results in the wide-angle effect, but also other distortions that cannot be avoided.

Here one speaks of a perspective distortion. The shorter the focal length , the closer the subject and the greater the angle of inclination, the stronger this effect becomes.

A perfect example of this is supportive lines. If you photograph lines (for example of high-rise buildings) from below or from above, it looks as if the lines are falling over. This can also happen if the lines are on the edge of the image.

This effect can be avoided by photographing the building from the front on the same level as possible. However, this is not always necessary, because it sometimes looks great when you integrate the effect of the “falling lines” in your subject and intensify it even further with a deep perspective.

The lanterns on the side lean slightly towards the centre as the picture was photographed from a deep perspective

No crashing lines as the picture was just photographed from a higher perspective

Focus range with the wide-angle lens

If you want to work a lot with a low focus range, it is difficult with a wide angle. Because the shorter the focal length , the larger the focus area. A diaphragm 4 on a wide angle therefore has a significantly larger field of focus than on a telephoto lens. You should definitely keep this in mind when buying a wide-angle lens. If you like to take photos with blurring, you should either pay attention to a large revelation when buying or use the normal lens. Because an aperture 1.8 on a 50mm, for example, cannot be compared with a 1.8 on a wide-angle lens e.g. B. 18mm.

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5 Tips for buying a new DSLR Camera

new canon DSLR camera

Do you love photography as much as I do? Do you have an out-of-date single lens reflex cam (DSLR), take images with your iPhone video camera or do you own a digital video camera or compact video camera?

Again and again you see these fantastic pictures from some photographers and believe: I want that too? Let me tell you ahead of time: With a new modern SLR camera you will not automatically take such pictures. Unfortunately, that is the unfortunate reality.

Last help from the SLR leaderboard

Naturally you can search for dslr electronic camera test, up and down on Google. You can invest days and weeks sorting through the latest SLR camera leaderboard in your favorite image publication.

What to do When Purchasing a New DSLR Camera?

I have always stated to myself: just when I am much better than my cam will I purchase a new electronic camera. Well, that only partially stopped me. Every now and then I can’t withstand.

But what does it really matter when you want to purchase a new DSLR camera? What is very important when searching for the best SLR for novices? Here I have made a note of a great deal of ideas for purchasing an electronic camera in detail.

By the way, here you will discover best sellers in the compact system cameras category, however here you will find the best sellers in the general category “Digital SLR electronic cameras “.

Wow, what do they utilize to take pictures?

See what an image was photographed with by means of EXIF file. How do the others constantly get these fantastic and razor-sharp pictures? When you look at images online, some pictures provide the so-called EXIF data. This represents Exchangeable Image File Format. These EXIF information offers infos with which electronic camera an image was taken. You can frequently discover these with numerous pictures by right-clicking on the preferred image.

Bingo, I require a new video camera. The picture on the right was taken with a Nikon D800 and a Nikon AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 14-24mm 1: 2.8 wide-angle lens. Of course, you can right away look for the video camera on some websites. You will rapidly find disillusioned – the camera of dreams costs possibly around 2000 pounds without the corresponding lenses. Of course you can buy used half price on our website.

Once again: do you need this? Will a new camera immediately turn your photos into small artworks?

Let’s take off our rose-colored glasses and ask ourselves: Do I actually need this cam at this point in time? Where am I in photography today?

Here you can take a deep breath and consider where you wish to go with your photos? Does a brand-new camera assistance you or are you – if you are totally truthful with yourself – actually looking for new inspiration for excellent photos?

The irony of the headline depends on this photo – a landscape photo that I’m very pleased with. Taken while running in the morning with the smartphone. You didn’t need a super expensive DSLR electronic camera for that.

In the jungle of point-and-shoot video cameras, DSLR, megazoom, mirrorless and co., there is no such thing as a “one-size-fits-all” camera. But what sort of video camera is the next best camera for me and my type of photography?

I have jotted down a few ideas that I have utilized to analyze my video camera purchase prior to I bring my cost savings to the nearest photo shop of my option. It doesn’t matter whether you are looking for the best SLR video camera for novices or just a few great ideas for a successful electronic camera purchase.

1. Take stock of your photography in front of the video camera purchase recommendations

Ask yourself: What are you presently photographing? What type of professional photographer are you? Where do you want to go what is your motivation: expert or pastime?

Every DSLR leaderboard and camera test is just excellent if you can interpret it according to your needs. If you can respond to that, you can start your search or, at finest, figure out: Technically, my video camera can do what I currently want.

You should also make certain that your new devices deals with your existing lenses – if you wish to continue utilizing them.

I like to take images of the night panorama over Berlin … Technical term: Long-Exposure Cityscape in the evening.

Numerous new camera models exist every year at Photokina and other photo fairs – not to mention lenses. However you shouldn’t appreciate that in the beginning.

At the beginning ask yourself what you really like to picture?

Do you like to photograph household events, architecture, travel, HDR, in video mode, during the night, in automatic mode, with a great deal of travel luggage or without having to bring it around, minimalist or the terrific city panorama, bugs in close-up, whatever? Only you can address this concern! And this question is important with regard to any camera purchase guidance.

I’ve tried a lot over the previous few months. Once again and again I find myself in two topics: nighttime city panorama in long direct exposure and portraits of exciting faces – whether in street photography or in workshops.

2. It matters: What about your digital camera weight?

A Canon 6D full-frame camera weighs simply under 1.5 kilos with one lens. The Sony Alpha 7 weighs 500 grams in functional mode. The brand-new iPhone 6 weighs 125 grams. Depending on the type and requirement, all three devices take good photos.

Ask yourself: How much weight do I want to bring around with me? I’ve answered this concern and state: I don’t care! I want the full weight and enjoy my DSLR including the lens park, stowed in my picture knapsack on my back.

By the way, here you will discover bestsellers in the compact system electronic cameras classification, here you will discover the bestsellers in the digital SLR electronic cameras category.

3. Look objectively: cash contributes

Megapixels and zoom aren’t everything. The lens plays an essential function in your image quality. If you decide on a “point-and-shoot” or a megazoom electronic camera, then you don’t have much to state when selecting a lens.

However, if it enters into the realm of the digital reflex camera or the mirrorless system cameras, then you also have to pick which lens you desire – a definitive function in the image quality. Lenses for a Canon 6D can cost over 1,000 euros each.

If you require a cam and new lenses, you need to think carefully about which system you begin with.

4. So check out who binds himself permanently: The picture devices

Quickly read the current DSLR video camera test and then purchase it. With a new camera this is also a bit risky. I want and have to hold an electronic camera in my hand before I purchase it.

Perhaps believe a step even more and ask yourself whether your previous accessories will fit with your brand-new cam (UV filter, sd card, external flash units). All of this also costs a lot to buy.

5. Do not you have one – borrow one: rental of photo devices

A choice that I’ve just utilized to gels up until now, but have actually never tried it: borrowing image equipment. Picture chains such as Calumet or my local photo store Foto-Meyer deal rental of photo accessories. Very useful when I first check on a weekend whether I actually need the 1,250 euro wide-angle and whether I enjoy it.

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5 good reasons why you must buy a prime lens

Canon EF 100mm f/2 USM Lens

Do you need a prime lens? Sooner or later you will absolutely discover the term repaired focal length while learning to take images – right? Do you currently have one?

I bought my very first prime lens about nine months back. Now I have actually seen a few reasons why a prime lens should never be missing out on in my photo bag again.

What are prime lenses?

A prime lens is a fixed focal length lens that does not permit you to zoom in or out. Simply put, the determined focal length of the lens is the distance is the range between the point of convergence in your lens to the sensor or film in your electronic camera.

Prime lenses permit a handful of benefits compared to their zoom equivalents. The first, and most desirable, is the availability of fast apertures. With a quick aperture, a lens has the ability to take full advantage of the amount of offered light by opening its aperture to an f/2– f/1.2 and even f/.95 range! A lot of zoom lenses do not shoot any faster than a f/2.8.

Having the ability to contend a fast & wide-open aperture likewise permits the shooter a more shallow depth of field. Depth of field (DOF) is the range between the foreground, topic and background. Shooting wide-open provides a narrow DOF, isolating the topic from its surroundings in regards to sharpness and clarity. The closer the lens is to the subject, the softer the foreground/background will end up being.

Prime lenses and imagination: you compose your photo.

There are probably 1,000 fantastic reasons to buy a prime lens. The decisive factor for me is the structure of the image. Again and again I failed in my picture structure because of “I have too much in my image”. A 50mm set focal length is stated to have roughly the exact same field of vision as the human eye. This indicates that the view through your viewfinder represents your field of vision. That makes your photographic life simpler. Due to the fact that you simply can’t zoom. You cannot “wide-angle”. It’s not working! If you want more – or less – in your image, use your feet. It’s that simple. It assisted me a lot. I approached the topic, kept my range. I looked again and thought a lot more before I pushed the shutter button. Here.

The fixed focal length teaches you to picture the basics

Zoom lens vs. fixed focal length: Sharp images

A set focal length (in English also Prime Lens or Fixed Lens) gives you very sharp images. There are a variety of reasons that this is so. On the one hand, a repaired focal length has fewer optical components than the traditional zoom lens therefore the image is sharper on your sensor.

In addition, a zoom lens generally has increasingly more distortions and chromatic aberrations. This means color fringes on high-contrast edges, ideally near the edges of the image and the corners of the picture. These chromatic aberrations occur basically depending on the quality of the lens.

The 50mm trick: the lovely bokeh

As quickly as you research study repaired focal lengths, you will often see the term open aperture. Because that is often what makes a good repaired focal length: the possibility of taking images with a fantastic bokeh with a so-called open aperture. With a zoom lens, it is not always simple to get a terrific bokeh, since it requires little aperture values (here, by the method, a brief refresher on the topic of aperture).

Light strength: Lots of light for great images

Just as great bokeh can be created with a little aperture value, a lens with a small aperture value (for instance with an open aperture of f/ 1.8) lets a great deal of light through. The lamellas of the aperture are wide open and allow a lot of light to strike the sensing unit when the shutter is launched.

This is great if you take images in bad lighting conditions and (naturally) want to do without a flash. With a zoom lens that begins with an aperture of f/ 5.6 or in the zoom range even from f/ 6.5, you will have trouble getting a sharp photo in low light without the above ISO (Iso expensive = image- Sound) or a long exposure time (exposure time too long = image blurring). With a fast fixed focal length you are much more independent to take pictures in undesirable light circumstances.

The most inexpensive lens: the fixed focal length

If you have a look around the entry-level market for prime lenses, you will be amazed at how cheap a usable prime lens can be. My first prime lens – the Canon 50mm prime lens with an aperture of f/ 1.8 – expense simply under 100 euros. And I still like the lens! A couple of months ago I bought an 85mm set focal length. It was a bit more expensive, however obviously – pricier is constantly possible. As soon as you look for a fixed focal length with f/ 1.4 or f/ 1.2, you will view as constantly – uh, it can be even more costly.

If you don’t desire to take expert advertising photos, you do not require these. I am really pleased with my two repaired focal lengths of 50mm and 85mm.